Gulf Coast Bicycle Commuting

Rain, rain . . .

2009-07-05T17:53:00.000-05:00

A summer thundershower just past through and it reminded me that I should post another entry, this time on rain gear. Now, when I talk "rain gear", I typically mean rain jacket and, possibly, rain pants, but I'm going to expand my definition a bit to include other rain related equipment as well as some opinions on the subject.

What to wear

This isn't as easy as it may seem because when you're riding, you are also generating heat (and lots of it) and sweat (and lots of it). The most obvious choice would be to go with a Gore-Tex© jacket. However, you are riding in the summer during a thundershower, the Gore-Tex© may not allow the perspiration to evaporate fast enough to keep you cool and dry (which is the whole point of wearing Gore-Tex© in the first place). Secondly, most thundershowers happen suddenly and pass quickly, so by the time you've stopped to put on your Gore-Tex© jacket, the thundershower may already have passed (or will shortly), leaving you just as wet. Under circumstances like that, with the heat and rain, I would just not bother with the jacket and let the rain cool me off right then and allow my clothes to dry naturally after the rain stopped, keeping me cool in the process.

Now, if it's a storm or prolonged shower (typically those associated with a warm front ), wearing rain gear makes sense because it may be hours (even days) before the rain passes. But is Gore-Tex© really necessary? Probably not. Face it; if it's raining, you're going to get wet. Period. Just get over the notion of staying completely dry and accept the fact you will get wet no matter how hard you try. If the weather is warm (70°F or higher), a rain jacket is probably not necessary. For cooler weather, rain gear will keep you moderately dry, but, more importantly, warmer. Yes, it is possible to get hypothermia in the summer (if the conditions are right) as well as hyperthermia, so be aware of the symptoms. A lightweight, water-resistant jacket, pants, and gloves will help keep you warm when cold rain comes, as will a pair of booties (I personally like the neoprene kind myself).

When selecting a jacket, think ventilation over waterproof. A good rain jacket will provide vents (often in the form of zippered, ventilated "pits" and a ventilated back with a flap to hold off the rain. Rain pants should be able to be put on while wearing shoes, so look for zippered legs. And, as always, make sure there is some reflective material; if not, buy an inexpensive reflective safety vest to wear over your jacket. Rain often means limited visibility and when it comes to bicycling, being seen is being safe.

One last item of interest that you may find helpful is a cycling cap. Cycling caps are inexpensive and yet very handy items. They can keep sweat from rolling into your eyes; the visor can keep the sun out, as well as the rain; and they fit nicely under a helmet.

What about the bike

As I said, I am expanding my definition of "rain gear" to include the bike as well as the rider. The very best thing to have on your bike for the rain is a set of fenders (also called mud guards). I have a set of SKS fenders which have the advantage of an aluminum core versus all plastic fenders, which makes them stronger. I also added a pair of Brooks mud flaps, to give a more polished finish and additional coverage.

Now, if you own a leather saddle, like I do, you will want to protect that as well. First, treating the saddle with Proofide, or other leather treatment, will not only prolong the life of your saddle, but offer water resistance as well. Unless you bring your bike inside or keep it in a bike locker, you will want to cover the saddle. You can purchase a saddle cover, but you also wrap a plastic shopping bag or even a shower cap over the saddle to keep the rain off.

And if you find yourself caught in a severe thunderstorm, my advice is to stop by the closest bar and have a couple drinks to wait out the storm.

Getting a Little Shifty

2009-06-07T15:20:00.018-05:00

Ugh, another break that was entirely too long. However, I have not forgotten about this blog, just busy with other things (jobs, life, etc.). I am riding again, although I did take last week off because I over did it the week before and ended up with a very painful cramp in my right calf. (Sounds like another blog entry to me.) Anyways, today I want to shift gears and talk about shifting gears (literally).

Now, unless you have either a single speed bike or an internally geared bike, you have the standard front and rear derailleur configuration. Most people tend to stick with only a handful of gears, often times at the lower end because their bike isn't properly adjusted to their body, but that's another topic. Many people (Americans, especially) like to buy bicycles with lots of gears thinking that "more is better". Well, not necessarily so. Consider this, the typical mountain/hybrid bicycle has a triple chainring up front and an eight or nine speed cassette in the rear, giving a total of 24 or 27 gear combinations. However, not all of those combinations are usable and many are either duplicates or close enough that it makes little or no perceived difference.

Let's take my bike for example. I ride an older Specialized with a triple chainring with a 30/40/50 combination and a seven speed freewheel with a setup of 12/14/16/18/21/24/28. So that should give me 21 speeds, right? Wrong! Out of the 21 speeds, there are three combinations that are duplicates (I'll illustrate that in a minute), four combinations that are unusable due to the resulting chain angle (one of which is also a duplicate mentioned above), and one where the difference is minor.

To better illustrate this, I am using the late Sheldon Brown's on-line gear inch calculator. Since I ride with a 700C x 38 wheel, I factor that into the calculator, along with my 175mm crankarms and get the following gear inch table:

	30	33.3 %	40	25.0 %	50
12	68.3		91.1		113.8
16.7 %
14	58.5		78.1		97.6
14.3 %
16	51.2		68.3		85.4
12.5 %
18	45.5		60.7		75.9
16.7 %
21	39.0		52.0		65.0
14.3 %
24	34.2		45.5		56.9
16.7 %
28	29.3		39.0		48.8

The following gear combinations are duplicates: 30x21 and 40x28; 30x18 and 40x24; 30x12 and 40x16. The following combinations are unusable because the resulting chain angle would cause rubbing on the front derailleur and excess lateral flex on the chain: 30x14, 30x12, 50x28, and 50x24. (Note that 30x12 is both a duplicate and an unusable gear.) The gear combinations 30x16 and 40x21 are less than one gear inch apart, so the difference is imperceptible.

A gear inch, for those who don't know, is defined as the number of inches traveled for each revolution of the pedals, and dates back to the old penny-farthings. Most people don't concern themselves with gear inches any more, but it can be useful for devising a shift pattern.

Again, taking my bike as an example, I use twist shifters rather than trigger shifters, but both have numbers that correspond to the respective gear from low to high, so this should translate to other bikes. I printed out the table above, crossed out the unusable gear combinations and highlighted the duplicates. Next, I numbered the chainrings and cogs from low to high to match the numbers on my shifters. Then I opened up a spreadsheet program and created the following shift table:

1-1	1-2	1-3	1-4	1-5
		2-1	2-2	2-3	2-4		2-5		2-6		2-7
						3-3		3-4		3-5		3-6	3-7

Note: The number to the left of the hyphen denotes the left shifter number (or chainring) and the number to the right of the hyphen denotes the right shifter number (or cog).

As you can see, I have three combinations that are (more or less) duplicates, therefore they are listed as being equal on the shift table. I left this as such in case I find myself in the lowest chainring for extended periods of time (like hills or strong headwinds). Otherwise, I start with the combination of 2-1 and start my shift pattern from there. I can now take this shift table, print it out, and tape it to my handlebars as an easy reference (and less memorization).

To use the table, I merely start out with a gear combination (normally 2-1) and shift from left-to-right to upshift, and right-to-left, to downshift. So, a normal upshift pattern would be 2-1, 2-2, 2-3, 2-4, 3-3, 2-5, 3-4, etc. Whenever extra torque is needed (such as strong headwinds, climbing hills, etc.), I'll start with 1-1 through 1-5, then shift to 2-4, 3-3, and so forth. This allows me to shift to each successive gear (according to gear inch) without making a massive jump that could sap my strength and energy in the long run and help maintain my cadence.

Sorry for the hiatus

2009-04-04T15:34:00.003-05:00

Okay, okay, I know; it's been a couple months since my last entry. The reasons are many and lame. With the new year came a new schedule (which seemed to change almost daily), not to mention at staying in a warm, cozy bed seemed to be a better option than peddling 10 miles in the cold, dark morning air. Then there was March, which seemed to become more of a lion as the month went along. We had several major thunderstorms roll through and, quite frankly, I'd just as soon not die by drowning in a torrential downpour. Oh, and windy?!?! If someone went out kite surfing, I would half expect them to end up in Oz before the day was over. The prospect of riding 10 miles into a 20+ MPH headwind when your average speed in only 15 MPH makes my legs hurt just thinking about it.

The fact is, I needed a break, if only to keep from turning stale. There is such thing as too much of a good thing. A common complaint among bicyclists is reaching a plateau. That is, you ride and ride, but you don't see any real changes. In fact, it can often be that you regress. That is when you should take a break and try something different for a while. This is one of the reason many bicyclist often take up running and/or swimming. The technical term is cross-training, but I simply call it breaking out of a rut.

The problem comes in knowing how long is too long of a break. The old adage "if you don't use it, you'll lose it" applies. Don't get me wrong, it's perfectly okay to stop commuting for a month or two (or more, if needed), but soon what was a regular routine before the break becomes a chore when you pick it back up. One way to ease back into the old routine is to slowly build it back up. Take a ride around the neighborhood once or twice a week. Nothing requiring great effort, or even your normal riding clothes. Just explore some of the side streets that you passed along the way before. Get some fresh air. Ride down to the beach or the local park. Better yet, head on over to the local bike shop and test ride a few bikes, even if you're not in the market to buy one yet. If you're currently riding a commuting bike, try a road bike or a mountain bike. Heck, take the top-of-the-line road bike out for a quick spin and see how it feels.

As for me, I am planning on commuting again starting this month. During Spring Break last month, I rode to work on Thursday to conduct a workshop for a couple new employees. I swapped weekends with another librarian this weekend and rode to work today. Both rides felt great, and reminded me of why I love to ride. Tomorrow should bring some scattered thunderstorms, but I may still ride.

The Ideal Commuter? - Part 5 My Ideal Commuter Bike

2008-12-17T15:18:00.006-06:00

Okay, at long last, here is the final installment. As always, remember that this is merely one person's opinion and what I think as the ideal commuter bike may or may not be what you (or anyone else, for that matter) think. Also, the bike I've chosen is also (for lack of a better term) a dream bike, as in "only in my wildest". (Hey, if the automakers can make dream cars, why not a dream bike?)

The bicycle that I feel makes the ideal commuter is Tout Terrain's Silkroad.

Okay, what makes this bike so special? Let me start with the obvious features. First, the rear rack is actually part of the frame; that makes the rack and frame that much stronger. Also, fewer bolts that can come loose. Second, the frame is designed to use disc brakes and only disc brakes. For anyone who commutes in snow, ice, or rainy conditions, disc brakes will stop you a lot faster without fear of the rims being slick from ice or water. Also, in the event that your wheel is damaged, your brakes will still work and will not wear down your rims prematurely.

The not so obvious, but oh so well thought out details include stainless steel braze-ons and drop-outs; an asymmetrical front fork to withstand the torque from the disc brake; guides for brake lines and wiring; internal routing of wires to the tail light; a handlebar stop to prevent the fork from moving more than 90°; and an integrated stand mount, among others. Be sure to read Peter White's description of the Silkroad for more information.

The frame comes in two flavors: the standard derailluer set-up (as shown above) or with an eccentric bottom bracket and mounts for a Rohloff Speedhub, giving you 14 speeds of internal gear goodness. Now, I know what you may be thinking right now: I can get more gears with a standard derailluer set-up. Well, technically, not so much.

Take a standard hybrid set-up, say a 28-38-48 chain ring with a 11-28 9-speed cassette. Mathematically, that gives you 27 speeds from which to choose. However, if you plug those numbers into a gear inch calculator, you'll find that 6 gear combinations are almost identical (28x21 & 38x28; 28x18 & 38x24; 28x14 & 48x24), while eight more are within one gear inch (28x13 & 38x16; 28x12 & 38x16; 38x14 & 48x18; 38x11 & 48x14). That drops the number of gears from 27 to 20. Also, due to the angle of the chain going from the smallest chain ring to the smallest cogs and from the biggest chain ring to the biggest cogs, you eliminate another 4 to 6 gears, so your usable gears drops from 20 to 16 or 14 gears. Calculated for a 26"x1.25" tire, your gear inch range is between 24.5 and 106.8 gear inches.

Compare that to the Rohloff hub with a 48 tooth chain ring and a 16 tooth cog with a 26"x1.25" tire, which yields a range of between 20.5 and 107.7 gear inches. Not only do you get a wider range of gears, you get the added benefits of a cleaner chain line, no derailluers that need adjusting or could be damaged, and the ability to change gears at a dead stop. Granted, it does come at a cost, both in price and weight. The Rohloff hub runs about $1300US to $1600US, depending on the version (start saving those pennies now), and weighs in at around 1847 g, or roughly 0.5 kg (about a 20oz bottle of water) more than a standard derailluer set-up.

The frame itself is not inexpensive, either. Peter White sells the frame for $1500US. However, if configured with some forethought (and Mr. White's recommendations), you will have a bicycle that will not only be an excellent commuter, but will handle centuries, brevets, and fully-loaded tours with style. In other words, think of the Silkroad as a Land Rover rather than as a Ferrari.

There are a couple deviations I would take from Mr. White's recommendations, but then again, everyone has their preferences. First, I would opt for Avid BB7 mechanical disc brakes rather than hydraulic brakes; a single adjustment knob without having to bleed the brake lines. Also, I would add a trekking or butterfly bar instead of a more traditional mountain bike bar, for more positions to reduce fatigue.

Is the bike pricey? Oh, yeah. Is it worth it? Depends on who you ask. I simply name this as an ideal commuter, a gold standard if you will, by which all others are compared. If you have the resources available and you are interested, by all means pursue it. However, most of us (myself included) can only look at this bike and dream of owning one.

Now, it's your turn. If you have a commuter bike that is your idea of "heaven on two wheels", let me know what make, model, and why you feel it is worthy of being an ideal commuter. And, yes, I will post any and all replies here. I will be taking a short holiday break from the blog, but I look forward to continuing this after the new year begins. So let me wish all of you out there reading my humble blog a Happy Holidays and a bright and prosperous (let's hope, at least) New Year.

Active Transportation Leads to Leaner Nations

2008-12-15T09:46:00.004-06:00

File this under "Well, duh". Apparently, countries that have higher rates of bicycling, walking and mass transit usage are populated by leaner people.

Study: Leaner nations bike, walk, use mass transit
By DUNCAN MANSFIELD

Jim Richards is no kid, but he loves to ride his bike. At 51, he has become a cycling commuter, pedaling 11 miles from his home in the suburbs to his job in downtown Knoxville.

"It really doesn't take that much longer" than driving, he insists.

And he gets 40 minutes of exercise twice a day without going to the gym, which he attributes to a 20-pound weight loss.

New research illustrates the health benefits of regular biking, walking or taking public transportation to work, school or shopping. Researchers found a link between "active transportation" and less obesity in 17 industrialized countries across Europe, North America and Australia.

"Countries with the highest levels of active transportation generally had the lowest obesity rates," authors David Bassett of the University of Tennessee and John Pucher of Rutgers University conclude.

Americans, with the highest rate of obesity, were the least likely to walk, cycle or take mass transit, according to the study in a recent issue of the Journal of Physical Activity and Health. The study relied on each country's own travel and health data.

Only 12 percent use active transportation in the United States - 9 percent walk, 1 percent ride a bike and 2 percent take a bus or train - while a quarter to a third are obese, the study said.

By comparison, 67 percent of commuters in Latvia, 62 percent in Sweden and 52 percent in the Netherlands either walk, bike or use mass transit. Latvia's obesity rate is 14 percent, the Netherlands' is 11 percent and Sweden's is 9 percent.

A similar pattern was found in Canada (19 percent active transportation, 23 percent obese) and Australia (14 percent active transportation, 21 percent obese).

Overall, Bassett said, "Europeans walk three times as far and cycle five times as far as Americans."

The authors say it's more than lifestyle choices that lead Americans to use their cars more. Europe's compact, dense layout and infrastructure are more conducive to getting around without a car.

Europeans on average walk 237 miles and cycle 116 miles per year; U.S. residents walk 87 miles and bike 24 miles. Bassett and Pucher calculated that translates into burning off 5 to 9 pounds of fat annually for Europeans compared to only 2 pounds for Americans.

While the analysis doesn't prove that transportation keeps obesity levels down "they make an excellent case," said Susan Handy, who heads the Sustainable Transportation Center at the University of California at Davis.

"The question, then, is what do we do?" said Handy, who was not involved in the study. "How do we get more people walking and bicycling in the U.S.?"

Anne Lusk, a research fellow at Harvard School of Public Health, said the study's results make sense.

"What I found most exciting about this excellent research is the applicability," she said. "The issue then becomes should we improve our transit, walking or bicycling opportunities simultaneously or should we focus on one of the three?"

Lusk said her first choice is bicycles - and not just because of global warming, fluctuating gas prices or the economic downturn. When Dutch researchers asked people to match emotions with various forms of travel, she said, "The greatest emotion was joy for bicycling."

Richards rekindled his love affair with a two-wheeler a few years ago while visiting bike-friendly Sweden.

Back home, he has a couple of things going for him. Richards lives in a medium-size Southern city where police officers can be found patroling on bikes and the mayor sometimes cycles to city hall.

The car is still king here, like most places in the United States, but Knoxville has developed a 41-mile greenway system that keeps Richards mostly on paved trails and off city streets.

He also works for an environmentally conscious employer. The country store-themed Mast General Stores of Valle Crucis, N.C., pays Richards and his co-workers $4 a day to ride, walk or catch a bus rather drive than their car.

After a year, his annual checkup shows the results: his heart rate, blood pressure and cholesterol all are down.

"I just love riding," he said. "It's like a double-shot of caffeine in the morning."

Well, isn't that surprising. Okay, not really, but this has an implications for Mississippi. As you are probably aware, Mississippi leads the nation in obesity, and ranks high in the number of heart attacks, strokes, and diabetes. Also not surprising is that Mississippi ranks near the bottom (47^th) in bicycling. For those who live in Mississippi who bicycle and/or walk, please consider donating Bike Walk Mississippi, supporting Let's Go Walking Mississippi and, whenever possible, use your local mass transit system.

More Letters to the Editor

2008-12-15T08:26:00.006-06:00

As a follow-up to an earlier letter to the editor in the SunHerald that I mentioned in a previous post, the bicyclist in question responded.

Law requires drivers and cyclists to share the road
Responding to [name withheld]’s letter of Nov. 17, “Few Coast streets are built for bikes and cars to share,” I am the menacing cyclist [name withheld]refers to. I cycled to work during the 1970s, ’80s and early ’90s before retiring. Setting the record straight I maintained a 1- to 2-foot distance from the road edge to avoid being side-swiped by passing cars.
Many motorists do not share the road. To protect myself I checked my rear-view mirror and, when seeing an approaching car, I moved toward the road edge to allow the motorist safe passage. Such defensive strategy protected both driver and me. I steer away from the road edge to avoid debris, stones, broken glass and holes which invite a flat. [Name withheld] should understand there are very few places to pull over on River Road.
Newspaper readers may remember “Mississippi Jack.” He complained about “the arrogant biker who, instead of driving on the extreme right, demanded the center of the one-lane Frederic Street Highway 90 underpass” and motioned for Jack to stay behind him. Yep, I was the arrogant biker trying to avoid being side-swiped in the curved, narrow underpass, which was lined with broken glass and debris, until I could ride through and move out of his way. Another example of a motorist refusing to share the road.
Mississippi state law says cyclists must ride as close as is safe to the right-hand edge of the roadway. A driver when overtaking and passing a bicycle proceeding in the same direction is required to leave a distance of not less than three feet between the motor vehicle and the bicycle.
More cyclists ride today than ever before. Riders, wear helmets, obey all traffic laws, signal when slowing, stopping, or turning. Ride in the same direction as auto traffic, stay as close to the right edge of the road as possible, walk across busy intersections. And to all the drivers, do not view cyclists as a traffic obstruction. Resist succumbing to road rage. We may be “losing money to a ticking time clock or missing appointments” or trying to meet a deadline. Thank you for your courtesy and consideration.
Name and location withheld.
SunHerald, Saturday, December 13, 2008

Then, the next day, I read this lovely piece.

Some people grow old, but they don’t grow up

Someone told me that I should exercise at a gym rather than walk or cycle outside. Sorry, lady, but although it might be too embarrassing for you to be seen bicycling in public, I like to inhale fresh air. Also, it is not scary for me as it might be for you. This is probably why I see a lot of women walking in pairs across the Ocean Springs bridge.

A lot of males think it is “macho” to honk, yell or say stupid things to me when I walk or cycle. I can understand such lack of maturity in a youngster, but many of these people are over 70 years old. Isn’t it time to grow up?

Name and location withheld.
SunHerald, Sunday, December 14, 2008.

Amen to that. To both authors: I will ride with you, any time, any place.

The Ideal Commuter? - Part 4 A Selection of Commuting Bikes

2008-12-12T12:58:00.004-06:00

First of all, let me apologize for the delay of this post. Crazy busy.

Now, for the next installment in the series, I will highlight some (certainly not all) bikes that I feel make ideal commuters. Like before, I'm going to (try) and divide them into short-trip (<> 5 miles) categories. Remember, just because I list a bike as a short-trip commutes does not mean it can not be used for longer commutes, and vice versa, this is just one man's opinion and your mileage may vary.

Short-Commute Bikes

Just about every bicycle made would fall into this category easily. Having said that, there are some bikes that are ready, right off the floor, that are ideally suited for commuting, namely what has become known as "Dutch-style bikes". While there is not an official category (even the Dutch do not refer to their bikes as being Dutch bikes), they all have some common features. As an example, I will use Azor's Opa.

This is the "classic" Dutch-style bike, the kind you'll find in Amsterdam or Copenhagen. First, check out the head and seat tube angles; very relaxed. The geometry of this bike screams upright, relaxed, stylish. This is not a road racer. The handlebars are also a classic cruiser-style. You will also notice the fenders (also called mud guards) with mud flaps, a sprung saddle, a kickstand, a generator hub, lights, a chaincase, a tire pump, a rear rack, and a coat/skirt guard on this bike. Some of the less obvious points of interest include roller brakes, an 8-speed internally geared hub, reflective sidewalls on the tires, and an integrated rear wheel lock. This bike is meant to be ridden as an every day bike with every day clothes; no spandex needed.

Electra Bike had a series of Dutch-style bikes called their Amsterdam line, with the Royal 8 as the flagship model.

Specialized has their Vienna Deluxe like the Vienna Deluxe 3 (sorry, no coat/skirt guard).

If you're not into black or dark blue, you can get Velobris Scrap Deluxe for the "naked" bike look. (Insert remark about blondes having more fun here.)
Of course, hybrids are popular, as are mountain bikes (but more on that in a later post).

Long-Distance Commuters

Now we're talking some long haul bikes. Granted, the bikes mentioned above could get you to your destination, but if you're facing a 20mph head wind or having to climb a lengthy and/or steep hill along the way, you may end up regretting the choice later. For longer rides, you might want something designed for long-distance riding, namely a touring bike.

Like the Dutch-style bikes mentioned above, touring bikes have a more relaxed geometry than most road bikes, but not quite as extreme as the Dutch-style bikes. Most touring bikes come with standard drop bars, but European trekking or butterfly bars are also popular. These bikes are designed with all day riding comfort and cargo capacity in mind, not necessary speed.

Raleigh's Sojourn comes tour/commute ready with fenders, rack and pump. It also comes with an aged Brooks B17 saddle, Brooks leather bar tape, a WTB Mountain Road Drop handlebar, and disk brakes. Just throw on a set of panniers and hit the open road.

Kona has two models that are commuter worthy. The first is their touring model called the Sutra. Like the Sojourn, it comes with a rear rack and disk brakes, but also a front rack and no fenders.

Kona's other commuter worthy model is new for 2009, the Dew Drop, part of the Dew series of hybrids. With a similar geometry as the Sutra, the Dew Drop comes without the racks, but also comes in at a lower price point, as well.

One of the most popular and highly praised bikes is Surly's Long Haul Trucker. The LHT, as it's affectionately called, also comes as a frameset so you can add your own components.

Again, this only scratches the surface of the myriad of bikes available and suitable for commuting. In my final installment, I will talk about my dream commuting bike. Until then, stay safe and ride your butt off.

The Ideal Commuter? - Part 3 My Commuting Setup

2008-12-02T11:29:00.004-06:00

In my last entry in this series, I discussed the basic differences between a short-distance versus a long-distance commuter bike. This time, I will talk about my commuter, what accessories I bought and why I chose them.

The Bike

Any commuting bike starts with the bike itself. In my case, it is a 1992 Specialized Crossroads Trail hybrid that I bought when I was in college. It replaced my trusty Specialized Hard Rock that was stolen. (This is what happens when you don't lock your bike, but that's for a different post.) The frame is made from chromoly steel and weighs in at about thirty pounds. The drive train is a 30-40-50 chain ring with 12-28 seven speed freewheel. The wheels are 700c, which makes them slightly larger than the 26" wheels that were on my old mountain bike. The bike remained stock until this past year when I started commuting.

The Commuting Essentials

The first change I made was to install a rear rack. I bought a Bor Yeuh rack (the rack in the link is similar to the rack I own) from Bike Nashbar for $10 on sale. While not the greatest rack around, the price could not be beat. The downside I found with the rack was what I believe to be a pitiful lack of clearance over the rear tire. Therefore, I recommend that in looking at racks, especially for 700c tires, that you look for one that is either specifically designed for 700c wheels (most should fit) or, better yet, look for one that has adjustable mounting brackets, especially where the rack mounts at the rear drop outs.

I also needed panniers. I bought a set of Nashbar Daytrekker panniers, but was unsatisfied with the capacity, so I built a pair of panniers from a couple of plastic buckets that held cat litter (another future entry) that have proven to be very capable and voluminous.

Next, I swapped out the tires that I had (which were dry rotted anyways) with Specialized Infinity Reflect 700x38c. I chose these tires for the puncture resistant Flak Jacket casing and the reflective sidewalls. The tread is a little aggressive for pavement, but then again, parts of my commute involve construction zones that may have sand, dirt, crush limestone, and/or gravel.

The stock saddle was starting to crack and fall apart (note: avoid vinyl covered saddles), so I did some research and decided on the Brooks B17 saddle. A little pricey compared to other saddles, but it has proven to be very comfortable once broken in. If you decide a Brooks is the saddle for you, I would advise buying a tin of Proofide at the same time, and a saddle cover to protect it from the rain.

Speaking of rain, I wanted my bike to be an all-weather commuter, so I added a set of SKS P50 Chromoplast fenders and added a couple Brooks leather mud flaps as a finishing touch. I chose the SKS fenders because, unlike other plastic bicycle fenders, the SKS fenders are made with thin strips of aluminum encased in plastic. This gives them a bit more rigidity and, in my opinion, durability. In fact, you can mount a tail light on Chromoplast fenders; something that plastic fenders cannot do.

Being Visible

Since I know that I will eventually end up riding at dawn/dusk times and even at night, staying visible is a high priority. My philosophy when it comes to being visible on a bicycle is, "Too much is never enough". I believe in having a balance between active lights and passive reflectors; never rely on just one type. When in doubt, repeat this mantra: "Redundancy is good. Redundancy is good."

The biggest fear among bicyclists is getting hit from behind. But as I pointed out in an earlier post, those accidents are far outweighed by frontal and side collisions. I have two Plant Bike Superflashes mounted on my rear fender and red reflective tape on the backside of my seat stays, on the back of my rear rim and a red reflective sheet on the back of both my bucket panniers.

Up front, I run a pair of Romisen RC-N3 CREE Q5 LED Flashlights mounted with a pair of Twofish Cyclopblocks hanging off of a pair of Minora Swing Grips. The Romisen flashlights have only one function (steady), put out a lot of light (over 200 lumens), can run on either one CR123A or two AA batteries, and have a decent run time (I have heard over three hours, but have not confirmed this first hand). I use rechargeable NiMH batteries for the lights (both front and rear) to cut down on battery costs and lessen my impact on the environment. I also have white reflective tape on the handlebars, down the front of the forks, and on the back of my front rim.

The final touch is an amber dual tube Down Low Glow mounted on the down tube and left chain stay. If you never heard or seen this product before and do any amount of night time riding, do yourself a favor and check out the site. During the day, the DLG is pretty much useless, but at night, cars will not only see you, but often times give you an entire lane's worth of space when they pass you. (Yes, this is from first hand experience). Not only is there an enhanced safety factor, this is also the coolness factor. I have had more than one person say, "Cool" or "I like your bike" when I'm on my night rides.

Visibility is not just limited to the bike, but also extends to the rider. Depending on the weather, I wear either a short sleeve jersey or a long sleeve jersey in Hi-Vis Yellow. I also have a Sugoi Venture jacket in Hi-Vis yellow. At night, I will add a reflective vest over my jersey. The one I currently wear is a green safety vest with silver reflective trim, but ideally I want to get a Hi-Vis yellow vest with safety orange trim and silver reflective tape. With all the road construction along Highway 90 recently, I found that this combination is highly visible even in fog.

Room for Improvement

Now after all that, you'd think I'd be satisfied. However, there are some areas that can be improved upon. First, I am still working on a nagging issue of the best hooks to use on my bucket panneirs; I currently use latching fender hooks to keep the panniers from bouncing loose. Second, I would like a second set of wheels (front and rear) as a backup in case one the current wheels gets damaged. I also want to try a different set of tires, namely Schwable Marathon Plus tires, which have superior puncture resistance, but also a high weight factor.

Even though the lights I have are suitable for the job, it would be nice to have lights that do not rely on battery power. Therefore, a generator hub (either Shimano or Schmidt) and coupled with a Busch & Müller Lumotec IQ Fly Plus headlight and a Busch & Müller 4D Lite Plus tail light would make an ideal companion to the battery powered lights and allow for longer night rides. Speaking of longer night rides, a better battery pack for the DLG would be a nice extra. I would also enhance the reflectivity of the bike by using SOLAS tape one the front of the bucket panniers, as well as the rims.

And as a final Fred touch, I would add a Mirrycle Mountain Mirror (two, actually) to keep an eye on things behind me (like overtaking cars) and an Incredibell Big Brass bell (the ring tone reminds me of the bike bell my parents had on their Schwinn Tandem).

Now is all of this really necessary? No. Is it overkill? Probably. Do I feel safer at night? Most definitely.

The next installment will cover a selection of different commuter bicycles, with comments on their strengths and weaknesses. Stay tuned.

Inflammatory Language

2008-11-26T13:24:00.005-06:00

I am posting and would like to comment on a follow-up on my recent opinion piece that was published in the Sun-Herald.

Few Coast streets are built for bikes and cars to share

While many of us believe that bicycles are toys for children, we realize that in other parts of the world they are a major means of transportation. Still, cyclists should show courtesy and consideration for those driving larger vehicles. This includes getting over to the side of the road when a backup of traffic builds up.

Among the bike riders I have known is a very nice man who is active in city and cultural organizations. Pleasant, with a wonderful wife. Considerate in many ways. For years I had to drive to work on a narrow, curvy, two-lane road - the same road on which this man chose to ride in the center of the traffic lane. I'll admit that he did wear a helmet and, if I recall correctly, some sort of fluorescent vest, had a rearview mirror, not sure about headlight and taillight. He considered himself a responsible bike rider. We considered him a menace. Drivers exercised care to avoid colliding with him, but at the expense of their mental health.

This man never considered that many of us backed up a block or two behind him were losing money to a ticking time clock or missing appointments. He insisted that riding in the middle of the lane was his right and refused to pull over in one of the places where there was room to do so and let traffic get by. It didn't matter how early or late you left home; there was no way to predict whether you would be treated to the temper-raising, slow traffic he created.

I wish that more roads were like the Cowan-Lorraine racetrack, where at least there is a separate lane for bicycles. Most Coast towns already are handicapped by streets with no sidewalks, no bike lanes, no spaces for curb parking. At least we should not be tortured by bike riders.

Eric Speas' Nov. 7 Forum on bicycle laws was interesting. I was aware of the require- ment [sic] for using hand signals, but a picture flashed through my mind of a bike rider sticking out his left arm for a left turn and having it instantly amputated by a truck.

Name and Location Withheld

This is a prime example of how opponents (for lack of a better term) of bicyclist's rights use inflammatory language to instill fear to make their argument. For example,

He considered himself a responsible bike rider. We considered him a menace. Drivers exercised care to avoid colliding with him, but at the expense of their mental health.

Now, the Merriam-Webster dictionary defines menace as:

1: a show of intention to inflict harm : threat
2 a: one that represents a threat : danger b: a person who causes annoyance

Now, I am sure what the writer meant to say was that s/he view the bicyclist as an annoyance rather than a threat. However, instead of saying that, s/he used the word "menace", which has an entirely different connotation. When most people use the word "menace", it usually goes something like, "He was a danger and a menace to society." And when most people hear the word "menace", that is the image that comes to mind: a threat and a danger to others. I hardly think that the bicyclist in question was a real threat, unless s/he brandished his/her bicycle like a club.

The second half of that quote is also quite interesting. Apparently, drivers have mental breakdowns whenever they get behind or have to pass a bicyclist. Road rage is one thing, but to say that a single bicyclist (or even a group of bicyclists) riding down the road in a safe, legal manner causes undue mental anguish to drivers is almost laughable. Personally, I get more annoyed and angered at other motorists who disregard the traffic laws and drive in a dangerous way than I do whenever I'm behind a bicyclist.

The next quote I'd like to comment on is this:

This man never considered that many of us backed up a block or two behind him were losing money to a ticking time clock or missing appointments.

Okay, so traffic was backed up behind the bicyclist. Like that never happens with construction equipment, horses, tractors, Sunday drivers, etc. Exactly how much time and money are we talking here? I wager that the most time lost would have been about two or three minutes. If a person is earning $15/hour, that comes out to 25¢/minute. Therefore, the most money that could have been lost was 75¢. Oh, and if you've missed an appointment by three minutes, perhaps you should have left sooner. Whenever I have an appointment, I always try to get there no less than 15 minutes, just in case something should happen along the way. And yet, to read this, you would think that the entire economic crisis that we are currently in is all due to one lowly bicyclist.

Next,

Most Coast towns already are handicapped by streets with no sidewalks, no bike lanes, no spaces for curb parking. At least we should not be tortured by bike riders.

Now, bicyclists are not only causing mental anguish, but also physical pain as well. Torture? So now the bicyclist is waterboarding drivers and driving bamboo slivers under their nails? I may be annoyed with other motorists and their insane, stupid, reckless, dangerous and/or illegal behaviors, but not once would I say that I have ever been tortured by such behavior.

The last sentence is my favorite:

I was aware of the require- ment [sic] for using hand signals, but a picture flashed through my mind of a bike rider sticking out his left arm for a left turn and having it instantly amputated by a truck.

I have never, ever, in my entire life, had my arm (or any other appendage) amputated, much less by a truck or other vehicle. The writer assumes (or wants us to believe) that bicyclists do not look over their shoulders; that somehow our neck muscles lock up so that we can only look ahead. Never mind the fact that there several instances where motorists have changed lanes without looking, often times cutting other drivers off and possibly causing an accident. If anything, bicyclist are more likely to look behind them because the biggest fear bicyclists have is getting hit from behind, even though statistics say that this type of accident is far less common than being hit from the front or side.

It is obvious that the person who wrote this letter has strong, emotional feelings about the issue. It is also worthy to note the choice of words and the use of language. This is a good example of the kind of criticism and resistance that bicyclists as a whole face from motorists. Therefore, it is worth to effort to recognize and defend against such attacks using not emotionally charge language, but facts, statistics, and well-reasoned, rationale arguments. When emotions run high, that is when bad things are most likely to happen.

My Opinion Piece

2008-11-26T13:17:00.001-06:00

As per a request, I am posting my Opinion piece that was recently published in the Sun-Herald.

What Mississippi law says about bicycles
by Eric Speas

Under the heading, "Get insurance, then rights," a Sound Off caller said, "If bicycle riders think they have the same rights as the automobiles, they need to have their turn signals, their lights and a bicycle tag. They also need insurance, then they can have the right of way of the highway."
I would like to address these arguments individually, so as to clarify any misunderstandings.
First, bicycles do have the same rights and responsibilities as automobile drivers. The Mississippi Code Section 63-3-207 states:
"Every person riding a bicycle or an animal or driving any animal drawing a vehicle upon a highway shall have all of the rights and all of the duties applicable to the driver of a vehicle under this chapter, except those provisions of this chapter which by their nature can have no application."
That right is guaranteed by the law. The exception is for controlled-access facilities, such as interstate highways.
As to turn signals, bicyclists, as well as motorcyclists and automobile drivers, can use hand signals to indicate intention to turn and stop. Section 63-3-709 states:
"The signals required in this article shall be given either by means of the hand and arm or by a signal lamp or signal device of a type approved by the department. When a vehicle is so constructed or loaded that a hand and arm signal would not be visible both to the front and rear of such vehicle, then said signals must be given by such a lamp or device."
Sec. 63-3-711 goes on to clarify:
"All signals given by hand and arm shall be given from the left side of the vehicle in the following manner and such signals shall indicate as follows:
"Left turn - hand and are extended horizontally.
"Right turn - hand and arm extended upward or moved with a sweeping motion from the rear to the front.
"Stop or decrease speed - hand and arm extended downward."
In regards to the use of lights, the Mississippi Code Section 63-7-13 states:
"Every bicycle shall be equipped with a lighted white lamp on the front thereof visible under normal atmospheric conditions from a distance of at least five hundred feet in front of such bicycle and shall also be equipped with a reflex mirror reflector or lamp on the rear exhibiting a red light visible under like conditions from a distance of at least 500 feet to the rear of such bicycle."
However, this is applicable only "during the period from sunset to sunrise and at any other time when there is not sufficient light to render clearly discernible any person on the highway at a distance of five hundred feet ahead." (Section. 63-7-11)
There is no requirement in Mississippi, nor in any other state, that requires bicycles to have tags. The idea, while attractive to some, has been tried in the past and proved to be both ineffective and inefficient. In 1935, the city of Toronto required bicycles to be licensed and to display the tag; that measure was repealed in 1956.
There is no requirement under Mississippi law requiring bicyclists to purchase insurance. In fact, most, if not all, insurance companies do not even have such policies available.
I would also like to point out Mississippi Code, Section 63-3-1112:
"Notwithstanding other provisions of this chapter or the provisions of any local ordinance, every driver of a vehicle shall exercise due care to avoid colliding with any pedestrian or any person propelling a human-powered vehicle and shall give an audible signal when necessary and shall exercise proper precaution upon observing any child or any obviously confused, incapacitated or intoxicated person."
As a bicyclist, I adhere to the regulations, as do many other bicyclists. That does not mean that there are those who do not, just as there are motorists who do not adhere to all traffic laws.
I am well aware of the vulnerable position I am in every time I ride. However, I do everything within my power to mitigate the risks. I ride with headlights, taillights and a helmet, not because it is required by law, but rather to reduce my risks of accidents and injury. I avoid using heavily trafficked streets, such as Pass Road and U.S. 90, whenever possible.
I have witnessed other bicyclists riding in dangerous and unlawful ways and I do not like it any more than you do. It reflects poorly on all bicyclists.
Bicycling is a safe, healthy, relaxing and enjoyable means of not only exercise, but transportation. I bicycle to work two or three times a week, not to save money on gas, but because I enjoy it and the health benefits that come with it. I would no sooner give up my rights to ride my bicycle than I would give up my right to free speech or ask others to do the same.

The Ideal Commuter? - Part 2 Short- and Long-Distance Commuters

2008-11-21T15:06:00.001-06:00

In Part 1, I went over a list of questions to consider before selecting a commuting bike. In this post, I will talk about the things I believe are essential requirements for both a short-distance (less than five miles) and long-distance (more than five miles) commuting bikes. I picked five miles because it is a distance where the commuting time by bike versus car is about equal. Beyond five minutes, the time advantage tends towards the car, but that varies depending on location, route taken, amount of traffic, yada, yada, yada.

Short-Distance Commuter

In this range, almost any bike will work, from a single-speed beach cruiser all the way up to a full-carbon time trials bike. However, most riders will opt for either a hybrid, a commuter/city, or a comfort bike. These bikes feature more a more upright riding position, comfortable saddles, flat or riser handlebars with comfortable grips, braze-on mounts for a rear rack and fenders, 700c wheels (although some will come with the smaller 26" wheels), and wider tires to help absorb shock. The geometry of comfort bikes are much more relaxed and give the rider a more upright riding position the a hybrid. Commuter and city bikes may have a geometry of a hybrid or a comfort bike, depending on the manufacturer and model. Commuter and city bikes will also come with fenders, a rear rack, a kickstand, a dynohub with headlight and tail light (the tail light may or may not be powered by the dynohub, so check with your bike dealer first), and even a bell.

The main advantages of these bikes for commuting is not only the comfort factor, but being able to see above and around cars easily. Because the commuting distance is so short, you could opt not to purchase fenders or a rack and instead carry a lightweight rain jacket (or not) and a backpack or a messenger bag. The number of speeds is up to the rider, but a good eight speed internally geared bike makes an excellent choice here. Linear pull or V brakes, are usually standard, although you may find some models equipped with disc brakes. Shifters are either twist or trigger style. Bikes in these categories tend to be more affordable than a dedicated road bike. Look to spend anywhere from $300 up to $1000 for a bike in these categories.

My choice for a short-distance commuter would be a commuter/city bike. With standard equipment like rack, fenders, dynohub and lights, commuter/city bikes comes with everything you need short of a helmet, panniers, and bicycling clothes to start commuting, rain or shine, day or night. They can also save you money over upgrading a hybrid or comfort bike to match that of a city/commuter.

Long-Distance Commuter

For distances of more than five miles, the demands shift more those long range comfort and multiple hand positioning. Drop bars or trekking bars become more of a necessity rather than a luxury, as does a good saddle. Beware of gel saddles or saddles that are too soft; while they may be fine for shorter trips, on long commutes, they will only increase pressure on your soft parts. Instead, look for a firmer (yes, I said firmer) saddle, and don't be afraid to try different saddles.

Road bikes make an obvious choice here, but do not overlook cyclo-cross bikes or a good touring bike. There are even some good hybrids that could work for 5+ mile commute. Look for multiple gears with a either a triple or a compact double crankset. Road bikes tend to have more closely spaced gears, so if you have a number of hills, you may want to opt for a cyclo-cross or touring bike. For these distances, a rear rack and fenders become necessities, so look for braze-ons. There are a some bikes in this range that come equipped with either fenders, racks, or both. If you are planning to ride on rough roads or over railroad crossing, consider the widest tire you can mount on the bike; road bikes tend to use thinner (less than 32mm wide) tires, which could translate into a harsher ride. Wider tires, while able to better absorb bumps, also come with increased rolling resistance.

More than likely, you will not find lights, kickstands, racks or fenders (except on some models), disc brakes, or IGHs. Therefore, you will need to budget accordingly. Rain gear is pretty much a given for this distance; while a couple miles in the rain may be refreshing, ten miles in the rain can leave you soaking wet and feeling miserable.

The prices here range from about $800-$2000+. However, a well equipped bike in this category can also be used for centuries, metric centuries, and even brevets and tours.

Note that these are broad generalizations, and may (or may not) reflect individual preferences. And, as always, test ride the bikes you are most interested in before (preferably several times) making a purchase. If the bike dealer will not allow you to test ride a bike, find a different dealer.

In Part three, I discuss my commuter, Fredkenstein™ I, the accessories used, why they were chosen, and the origins of the name.

The Ideal Commuter? - Part 1 Questions To Ask Yourself

2008-11-21T13:05:00.008-06:00

I am on the Bike Forums message board and one of the most frequently asked questions from new commuters is "What bike should I get?" The basic answer is "what ever bike you own". Granted, there are those who tout the benefits of one bike over another, the real answer is somewhat more elusive and finally comes do to personal preference. So in this five part series, I will first outline what I believe to be some of the fundamental questions to ask yourself. Part 2 will cover what to look for in a short distance versus a long distance commuter bike. In Part 3, I will then describe my current bike, including accessories, and rationale for my choices. Part 4 will list some bikes that best fit the aforementioned qualities. And finally, Part 5 will describe my ideal commuting bike, should any manufacturer be willing to build it. And remember, this is merely one person's opinion; only you, dear reader, can decide what bike is best suited for you.

The basic requirements of a commuter bike is that it has two wheels and a frame geometry that is comfortable suited for the style of riding the rider prefers. Okay, so that's the smartass response, but it is also true. A road racing bike would be overkill for a two mile commute. On the other hand, a beach cruiser would be too heavy and cumbersome for a ten mile commute. So, let's list the various factors that go into selecting a good commuter.

How long is the commute?

cyclo

ons

What is your intended route like?

MUPs

MUP

Will you be carrying extra clothes, gear, etc.? If so, how do you plan on carrying them?

What is your riding style like?

cyclo

How much money have you budgeted for the bike, clothes, and accessories?

Do you plan on riding in the rain? At night? Year round?

dyno

Do you want a standard geared bike? Internal gears? A single speed?

IGH

three speeds

fourteen speeds

infinitely variable range

IGHs

So, to summarize what to look for in choosing a commuter bike.

A frame design suited to your riding style;
Handlebar that offers a good riding position or multiple positions;
Braze-ons for fenders, rack, and water bottle cages;
Puncture resistant tires;
Single or multi-speed drive train, depending on your preference;
Comfort.

In Part 2, I will talk about what to look for in a short-distance and long-distance commuting bike.

Bicycle Accidents and Fatalities Statistics

2008-11-20T10:53:00.002-06:00

I always say that bicycling is a easy, healthy and safe way to commute to work and to run errands. However, there are those who claim that bicycling, especially in this area, is anything but safe. After a little research, I was able to come up with some interesting statistics that help support my claim.

The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) recently released their 2007 Traffic Safety Fact Sheets. Among the reports is one that addresses bicyclists and other cyclists. The report states that there were 698 cyclists killed and 43,000 injured in traffic crashes. The numbers sound alarming until you realize that cyclists account for only 2% of traffic fatalities and injuries during this time period. The total number of traffic fatalities for 2007 was 41,059 out of a population of 301,621,000. Of those, 698, or 1.7%, were cyclists. That gives a ratio of 2.31 cyclists killed per one million people. That is slightly more than 1 cyclist killed out of 500,000 people. Your odds of being killed on a bicycle are better than being dealt a straight flush (1 in 72,193.33 ), but less than being dealt a royal flush (1 in 649,740).

Now lets consider the data from Fatality Analysis Reporting System (FARS) for motorized vehicles. For 2007, there were 37,248 fatal motor vehicle crashes resulting in 30,401 deaths. That results in 123.49 fatalities per one million people. That means you are 53 times more likely to die in a car accident than you would be killed riding a bicycle.

Now, back to the bicycle injuries and fatalities for a moment. The highest fatality rates where male riders between the ages of 45 and 54 (132 killed, 6.11 fatality rate). Among female riders, the highest fatality rates where in the 35-44 age group (18 killed, 0.84 fatality rate). The highest injury rates were among male riders between the ages of 10 and 15 (8,000 injured, 614.6 injury rate) and among women, it was the same age range with 2,000 injuries and an injury rate of 130.9. The injury rates are high, but taken into consideration the age group in question, it is not alarming or even surprising. After all, this is the age group that is most likely to be involved in BMX, youth mountain bike racing, and general reckless behavior.

According to these data, the location of accidents is almost evenly split between intersections and non-intersections for ages between 10 and 20. Cyclists in the 21-24 age group are three times more likely to be hit at non-intersections than at intersections. For ages 21 and over, the number of accidents at non-intersections outweigh the number of accidents at intersections. The number one reported factor in bicycle accidents is the failure to yield the right of way (20.9%). No reported factors accounted for 37.5% of bicycle accidents, so no reliable way to determine the causes of these accidents. Time of day seems to have little effect on the number of accidents. However, there is a significant increase in the hours between 3:00 p.m. and 8:59 p.m. I am merely guessing here, but that includes the afternoon rush hour traffic and, during the fall to spring, the setting of the sun, both of which may play a factor. Also of interest, light trucks, including SUVs, account for the majority of bicycle related accidents (297) with passenger cars coming in second (242).

Yes, there are risks with riding a bicycle, but the same is true of most every activity from washing dishes to skydiving. There is no way to eliminate all risks, but much can be done to mitigate the risk factors to a reasonable and manageable level. The first and most obvious is to wear a helmet. I know that there is a debate about the effectiveness of helmets to prevent all injuries, but the fact is helmets do help prevent many head injuries that would be otherwise fatal or debilitating.

However, helmet use alone does not make a bicyclist safe, or even safer. Learning proper riding style and obeying the rules of the road plays a much bigger factor to being safe on the road, as does being visible. Headlights and tail lights, reflectors, and brightly colored clothing will help drivers see you better, especially at night or low light conditions (e.g., riding on a tree shaded road). Choosing appropriate routes (e.g., less motorized traffic, slower speeds) will lessen the number of possible incidents. Use of hand signals for lane changes, turns, and slowing/stopping helps you communicate with drivers, as does proper lane positioning. Also, be aware of the most common hazards and how to avoid them.

And to quote Sergeant Esterhaus from "Hill Street Blues", "Hey, let's be careful out there."

OMG! Not another blog!

2008-11-19T12:14:00.003-06:00

Yes, my dear reader, I am afraid that there is (yet) another blog clogging up the Internet. So why bother creating another in a seemingly endless parade of vanity-filled ramblings to an audience who is quite possibly overwhelmed with too much poor, useless, and otherwise banal information? That is a very good question. Like most things I undertake, there is not simply one simple reason. Part of the goal of this blog is to act as a vehicle for expressing my thoughts, feelings, musings, ruminations, philosophy, religion, and politics about bicycle commuting on the Mississippi Gulf Coast. I also hope that this will be a resource for others in the area, both bicyclists and non-bicyclists alike, to learn and understand more about bicycle commuting, both the challenges and the rewards.

I started bicycle commuting about five months ago, and while I may ride every day, I do try to ride at least once a week. The biggest obstacle, so far, from my becoming a daily commuter has been, of all things, my work schedule. My job often requires me to travel between the main campus in Long Beach to the Student Service Center in Gulfport. Also, once a month, I go to Gautier to keep tabs on things going on at the Jackson County campus. And there are the occasional trips to Hattiesburg that I need to take. So far, whenever I know that those situations are going to occur, I drive instead of bike. However, I am working on a possible solutions to this and will report back when the time is appropriate.

My commute is a fairly lengthy one at roughly ten miles. Most people are amazed that I "ride so far", but I am not that impressed because I have ridden further than that in my life. What dismays me isn't the distance, but rather the time and, by extension, the speed at which I travel. It takes me approximately forty-five to fifty minutes to travel ten miles. That works out to an average speed of between 12 to 13 mph. Granted, the average speed is taking into account stopping at red lights, stop signs and the occasional freight train. I should also mention that the bike I ride weighs in at about 30 pounds and I carry an additional 10 to 15 pounds of gear (clothing, lights, locks, etc.) with me and that the bike is a hybrid, not a road racer. Contrast this to traveling the same distance by car, it takes me about 20 minutes.

&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;&lt;span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_6"&gt;lt&lt;/span&gt;;a &lt;span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_7"&gt;href&lt;/span&gt;="http://www.mapmyride.com/ride/united-states/ms/biloxi/316731179433"&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;gt;&lt;span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_8"&gt;DeBuys&lt;/span&gt; to Work Route&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;&lt;span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_9"&gt;lt&lt;/span&gt;;/a&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;gt;&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;&lt;span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_10"&gt;lt&lt;/span&gt;;&lt;span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_11"&gt;br&lt;/span&gt;/&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;gt;&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;&lt;span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_12"&gt;lt&lt;/span&gt;;a &lt;span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_13"&gt;href&lt;/span&gt;="http://www.mapmyride.com/find-ride/united-states/ms/biloxi"&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;gt;Find more Bike Rides in &lt;span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_14"&gt;Biloxi&lt;/span&gt;, Mississippi&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;&lt;span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_15"&gt;lt&lt;/span&gt;;/a&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;gt;
So why bike to work rather than driving? The most obvious answer would be to save money, but that is not my prime motivation. The primary reason for riding is for the exercise and the simple enjoyment of bicycling. Face it, we all lead busy lives and finding time to exercise, most often than not, gets set aside or ignored. There is simply too much to do to be bothered with packing up gym clothes, going to the gym, paying a membership fee, change out of work clothes and into gym clothes, exercise, and then reversing the process to go home. And exercising at home? Well, I am sure there are others who are much better at that than I. No, for me, bicycling to and from work gives me a good, healthy exercise, twice a day. As a result, I have more energy, a better, more positive attitude, better focus, lower blood pressure and heart rate, and generally feel good about myself.

The exercise is important to me because I have a cirrhosis of the liver, the symptoms of which include lethargy, short-term memory loss, inability to remain focused, weakness, and confusion, among others. And do not get me started on the complications that can result; it is almost too depressing to think about. My doctors have me on a beta-blocker to lower my blood pressure, but I also know that regular, aerobic exercise will also help lower blood pressure over the long term, as well as lower my heart rate. Not surprisingly, my doctors are all supportive, as is my wife, who expresses her pride and admiration to me every day.

A little bit about me. I am not a native Mississippian. I grew up in Michigan and am proud to call it my home state. Now before anyone starts using the "Y" word, allow me a moment, if you will, to express my preferred geographic descriptor: Wolverine. No, not the X-Men character, nor the mascot from the University of Michigan. This label has its origins in both history and literature. Historically, the term Wolverine was given (as some have claimed) by Ohioans during what has been called "The Toledo War". The end results of which gave Ohio Toledo and Michigan the Upper Peninsula and is symbolically replayed every year during one of the greatest football rivalries. The literary source comes from Walt Whitman's poem, "Song of Myself" which reads, "The Wolverine sets traps on the creek that helps fill the Huron". Note that Wolverine is capitalized, indicating a proper name and Huron refers to Lake Huron. Now, I do not take offense at the term Yankee; I just recall a joke about how the meaning of the term changes depending on who hears it, and I have a private chuckle.