The Ideal Commuter? - Part 5 My Ideal Commuter Bike

Okay, at long last, here is the final installment. As always, remember that this is merely one person's opinion and what I think as the ideal commuter bike may or may not be what you (or anyone else, for that matter) think. Also, the bike I've chosen is also (for lack of a better term) a dream bike, as in "only in my wildest". (Hey, if the automakers can make dream cars, why not a dream bike?)

The bicycle that I feel makes the ideal commuter is Tout Terrain's Silkroad.

Okay, what makes this bike so special? Let me start with the obvious features. First, the rear rack is actually part of the frame; that makes the rack and frame that much stronger. Also, fewer bolts that can come loose. Second, the frame is designed to use disc brakes and only disc brakes. For anyone who commutes in snow, ice, or rainy conditions, disc brakes will stop you a lot faster without fear of the rims being slick from ice or water. Also, in the event that your wheel is damaged, your brakes will still work and will not wear down your rims prematurely.

The not so obvious, but oh so well thought out details include stainless steel braze-ons and drop-outs; an asymmetrical front fork to withstand the torque from the disc brake; guides for brake lines and wiring; internal routing of wires to the tail light; a handlebar stop to prevent the fork from moving more than 90°; and an integrated stand mount, among others. Be sure to read Peter White's description of the Silkroad for more information.

The frame comes in two flavors: the standard derailluer set-up (as shown above) or with an eccentric bottom bracket and mounts for a Rohloff Speedhub, giving you 14 speeds of internal gear goodness. Now, I know what you may be thinking right now: I can get more gears with a standard derailluer set-up. Well, technically, not so much.

Take a standard hybrid set-up, say a 28-38-48 chain ring with a 11-28 9-speed cassette. Mathematically, that gives you 27 speeds from which to choose. However, if you plug those numbers into a gear inch calculator, you'll find that 6 gear combinations are almost identical (28x21 & 38x28; 28x18 & 38x24; 28x14 & 48x24), while eight more are within one gear inch (28x13 & 38x16; 28x12 & 38x16; 38x14 & 48x18; 38x11 & 48x14). That drops the number of gears from 27 to 20. Also, due to the angle of the chain going from the smallest chain ring to the smallest cogs and from the biggest chain ring to the biggest cogs, you eliminate another 4 to 6 gears, so your usable gears drops from 20 to 16 or 14 gears. Calculated for a 26"x1.25" tire, your gear inch range is between 24.5 and 106.8 gear inches.

Compare that to the Rohloff hub with a 48 tooth chain ring and a 16 tooth cog with a 26"x1.25" tire, which yields a range of between 20.5 and 107.7 gear inches. Not only do you get a wider range of gears, you get the added benefits of a cleaner chain line, no derailluers that need adjusting or could be damaged, and the ability to change gears at a dead stop. Granted, it does come at a cost, both in price and weight. The Rohloff hub runs about $1300US to $1600US, depending on the version (start saving those pennies now), and weighs in at around 1847 g, or roughly 0.5 kg (about a 20oz bottle of water) more than a standard derailluer set-up.

The frame itself is not inexpensive, either. Peter White sells the frame for $1500US. However, if configured with some forethought (and Mr. White's recommendations), you will have a bicycle that will not only be an excellent commuter, but will handle centuries, brevets, and fully-loaded tours with style. In other words, think of the Silkroad as a Land Rover rather than as a Ferrari.

There are a couple deviations I would take from Mr. White's recommendations, but then again, everyone has their preferences. First, I would opt for Avid BB7 mechanical disc brakes rather than hydraulic brakes; a single adjustment knob without having to bleed the brake lines. Also, I would add a trekking or butterfly bar instead of a more traditional mountain bike bar, for more positions to reduce fatigue.

Is the bike pricey? Oh, yeah. Is it worth it? Depends on who you ask. I simply name this as an ideal commuter, a gold standard if you will, by which all others are compared. If you have the resources available and you are interested, by all means pursue it. However, most of us (myself included) can only look at this bike and dream of owning one.

Now, it's your turn. If you have a commuter bike that is your idea of "heaven on two wheels", let me know what make, model, and why you feel it is worthy of being an ideal commuter. And, yes, I will post any and all replies here. I will be taking a short holiday break from the blog, but I look forward to continuing this after the new year begins. So let me wish all of you out there reading my humble blog a Happy Holidays and a bright and prosperous (let's hope, at least) New Year.

The Ideal Commuter? - Part 4 A Selection of Commuting Bikes

First of all, let me apologize for the delay of this post. Crazy busy.

Now, for the next installment in the series, I will highlight some (certainly not all) bikes that I feel make ideal commuters. Like before, I'm going to (try) and divide them into short-trip (<> 5 miles) categories. Remember, just because I list a bike as a short-trip commutes does not mean it can not be used for longer commutes, and vice versa, this is just one man's opinion and your mileage may vary.

Short-Commute Bikes

Just about every bicycle made would fall into this category easily. Having said that, there are some bikes that are ready, right off the floor, that are ideally suited for commuting, namely what has become known as "Dutch-style bikes". While there is not an official category (even the Dutch do not refer to their bikes as being Dutch bikes), they all have some common features. As an example, I will use Azor's Opa.



This is the "classic" Dutch-style bike, the kind you'll find in Amsterdam or Copenhagen. First, check out the head and seat tube angles; very relaxed. The geometry of this bike screams upright, relaxed, stylish. This is not a road racer. The handlebars are also a classic cruiser-style. You will also notice the fenders (also called mud guards) with mud flaps, a sprung saddle, a kickstand, a generator hub, lights, a chaincase, a tire pump, a rear rack, and a coat/skirt guard on this bike. Some of the less obvious points of interest include roller brakes, an 8-speed internally geared hub, reflective sidewalls on the tires, and an integrated rear wheel lock. This bike is meant to be ridden as an every day bike with every day clothes; no spandex needed.

Electra Bike had a series of Dutch-style bikes called their Amsterdam line, with the Royal 8 as the flagship model.



Specialized has their Vienna Deluxe like the Vienna Deluxe 3 (sorry, no coat/skirt guard).


If you're not into black or dark blue, you can get Velobris Scrap Deluxe for the "naked" bike look. (Insert remark about blondes having more fun here.)
Of course, hybrids are popular, as are mountain bikes (but more on that in a later post).

Long-Distance Commuters

Now we're talking some long haul bikes. Granted, the bikes mentioned above could get you to your destination, but if you're facing a 20mph head wind or having to climb a lengthy and/or steep hill along the way, you may end up regretting the choice later. For longer rides, you might want something designed for long-distance riding, namely a touring bike.

Like the Dutch-style bikes mentioned above, touring bikes have a more relaxed geometry than most road bikes, but not quite as extreme as the Dutch-style bikes. Most touring bikes come with standard drop bars, but European trekking or butterfly bars are also popular. These bikes are designed with all day riding comfort and cargo capacity in mind, not necessary speed.

Raleigh's Sojourn comes tour/commute ready with fenders, rack and pump. It also comes with an aged Brooks B17 saddle, Brooks leather bar tape, a WTB Mountain Road Drop handlebar, and disk brakes. Just throw on a set of panniers and hit the open road.



Kona has two models that are commuter worthy. The first is their touring model called the Sutra. Like the Sojourn, it comes with a rear rack and disk brakes, but also a front rack and no fenders.



Kona's other commuter worthy model is new for 2009, the Dew Drop, part of the Dew series of hybrids. With a similar geometry as the Sutra, the Dew Drop comes without the racks, but also comes in at a lower price point, as well.



One of the most popular and highly praised bikes is Surly's Long Haul Trucker. The LHT, as it's affectionately called, also comes as a frameset so you can add your own components.



Again, this only scratches the surface of the myriad of bikes available and suitable for commuting. In my final installment, I will talk about my dream commuting bike. Until then, stay safe and ride your butt off.

The Ideal Commuter? - Part 3 My Commuting Setup

In my last entry in this series, I discussed the basic differences between a short-distance versus a long-distance commuter bike. This time, I will talk about my commuter, what accessories I bought and why I chose them.

The Bike

Any commuting bike starts with the bike itself. In my case, it is a 1992 Specialized Crossroads Trail hybrid that I bought when I was in college. It replaced my trusty Specialized Hard Rock that was stolen. (This is what happens when you don't lock your bike, but that's for a different post.) The frame is made from chromoly steel and weighs in at about thirty pounds. The drive train is a 30-40-50 chain ring with 12-28 seven speed freewheel. The wheels are 700c, which makes them slightly larger than the 26" wheels that were on my old mountain bike. The bike remained stock until this past year when I started commuting.

The Commuting Essentials

The first change I made was to install a rear rack. I bought a Bor Yeuh rack (the rack in the link is similar to the rack I own) from Bike Nashbar for $10 on sale. While not the greatest rack around, the price could not be beat. The downside I found with the rack was what I believe to be a pitiful lack of clearance over the rear tire. Therefore, I recommend that in looking at racks, especially for 700c tires, that you look for one that is either specifically designed for 700c wheels (most should fit) or, better yet, look for one that has adjustable mounting brackets, especially where the rack mounts at the rear drop outs.

I also needed panniers. I bought a set of Nashbar Daytrekker panniers, but was unsatisfied with the capacity, so I built a pair of panniers from a couple of plastic buckets that held cat litter (another future entry) that have proven to be very capable and voluminous.

Next, I swapped out the tires that I had (which were dry rotted anyways) with Specialized Infinity Reflect 700x38c. I chose these tires for the puncture resistant Flak Jacket casing and the reflective sidewalls. The tread is a little aggressive for pavement, but then again, parts of my commute involve construction zones that may have sand, dirt, crush limestone, and/or gravel.

The stock saddle was starting to crack and fall apart (note: avoid vinyl covered saddles), so I did some research and decided on the Brooks B17 saddle. A little pricey compared to other saddles, but it has proven to be very comfortable once broken in. If you decide a Brooks is the saddle for you, I would advise buying a tin of Proofide at the same time, and a saddle cover to protect it from the rain.

Speaking of rain, I wanted my bike to be an all-weather commuter, so I added a set of SKS P50 Chromoplast fenders and added a couple Brooks leather mud flaps as a finishing touch. I chose the SKS fenders because, unlike other plastic bicycle fenders, the SKS fenders are made with thin strips of aluminum encased in plastic. This gives them a bit more rigidity and, in my opinion, durability. In fact, you can mount a tail light on Chromoplast fenders; something that plastic fenders cannot do.

Being Visible

Since I know that I will eventually end up riding at dawn/dusk times and even at night, staying visible is a high priority. My philosophy when it comes to being visible on a bicycle is, "Too much is never enough". I believe in having a balance between active lights and passive reflectors; never rely on just one type. When in doubt, repeat this mantra: "Redundancy is good. Redundancy is good."

The biggest fear among bicyclists is getting hit from behind. But as I pointed out in an earlier post, those accidents are far outweighed by frontal and side collisions. I have two Plant Bike Superflashes mounted on my rear fender and red reflective tape on the backside of my seat stays, on the back of my rear rim and a red reflective sheet on the back of both my bucket panniers.

Up front, I run a pair of Romisen RC-N3 CREE Q5 LED Flashlights mounted with a pair of Twofish Cyclopblocks hanging off of a pair of Minora Swing Grips. The Romisen flashlights have only one function (steady), put out a lot of light (over 200 lumens), can run on either one CR123A or two AA batteries, and have a decent run time (I have heard over three hours, but have not confirmed this first hand). I use rechargeable NiMH batteries for the lights (both front and rear) to cut down on battery costs and lessen my impact on the environment. I also have white reflective tape on the handlebars, down the front of the forks, and on the back of my front rim.

The final touch is an amber dual tube Down Low Glow mounted on the down tube and left chain stay. If you never heard or seen this product before and do any amount of night time riding, do yourself a favor and check out the site. During the day, the DLG is pretty much useless, but at night, cars will not only see you, but often times give you an entire lane's worth of space when they pass you. (Yes, this is from first hand experience). Not only is there an enhanced safety factor, this is also the coolness factor. I have had more than one person say, "Cool" or "I like your bike" when I'm on my night rides.

Visibility is not just limited to the bike, but also extends to the rider. Depending on the weather, I wear either a short sleeve jersey or a long sleeve jersey in Hi-Vis Yellow. I also have a Sugoi Venture jacket in Hi-Vis yellow. At night, I will add a reflective vest over my jersey. The one I currently wear is a green safety vest with silver reflective trim, but ideally I want to get a Hi-Vis yellow vest with safety orange trim and silver reflective tape. With all the road construction along Highway 90 recently, I found that this combination is highly visible even in fog.

Room for Improvement

Now after all that, you'd think I'd be satisfied. However, there are some areas that can be improved upon. First, I am still working on a nagging issue of the best hooks to use on my bucket panneirs; I currently use latching fender hooks to keep the panniers from bouncing loose. Second, I would like a second set of wheels (front and rear) as a backup in case one the current wheels gets damaged. I also want to try a different set of tires, namely Schwable Marathon Plus tires, which have superior puncture resistance, but also a high weight factor.

Even though the lights I have are suitable for the job, it would be nice to have lights that do not rely on battery power. Therefore, a generator hub (either Shimano or Schmidt) and coupled with a Busch & Müller Lumotec IQ Fly Plus headlight and a Busch & Müller 4D Lite Plus tail light would make an ideal companion to the battery powered lights and allow for longer night rides. Speaking of longer night rides, a better battery pack for the DLG would be a nice extra. I would also enhance the reflectivity of the bike by using SOLAS tape one the front of the bucket panniers, as well as the rims.

And as a final Fred touch, I would add a Mirrycle Mountain Mirror (two, actually) to keep an eye on things behind me (like overtaking cars) and an Incredibell Big Brass bell (the ring tone reminds me of the bike bell my parents had on their Schwinn Tandem).

Now is all of this really necessary? No. Is it overkill? Probably. Do I feel safer at night? Most definitely.

The next installment will cover a selection of different commuter bicycles, with comments on their strengths and weaknesses. Stay tuned.

The Ideal Commuter? - Part 2 Short- and Long-Distance Commuters

In Part 1, I went over a list of questions to consider before selecting a commuting bike. In this post, I will talk about the things I believe are essential requirements for both a short-distance (less than five miles) and long-distance (more than five miles) commuting bikes. I picked five miles because it is a distance where the commuting time by bike versus car is about equal. Beyond five minutes, the time advantage tends towards the car, but that varies depending on location, route taken, amount of traffic, yada, yada, yada.

Short-Distance Commuter

In this range, almost any bike will work, from a single-speed beach cruiser all the way up to a full-carbon time trials bike. However, most riders will opt for either a hybrid, a commuter/city, or a comfort bike. These bikes feature more a more upright riding position, comfortable saddles, flat or riser handlebars with comfortable grips, braze-on mounts for a rear rack and fenders, 700c wheels (although some will come with the smaller 26" wheels), and wider tires to help absorb shock. The geometry of comfort bikes are much more relaxed and give the rider a more upright riding position the a hybrid. Commuter and city bikes may have a geometry of a hybrid or a comfort bike, depending on the manufacturer and model. Commuter and city bikes will also come with fenders, a rear rack, a kickstand, a dynohub with headlight and tail light (the tail light may or may not be powered by the dynohub, so check with your bike dealer first), and even a bell.

The main advantages of these bikes for commuting is not only the comfort factor, but being able to see above and around cars easily. Because the commuting distance is so short, you could opt not to purchase fenders or a rack and instead carry a lightweight rain jacket (or not) and a backpack or a messenger bag. The number of speeds is up to the rider, but a good eight speed internally geared bike makes an excellent choice here. Linear pull or V brakes, are usually standard, although you may find some models equipped with disc brakes. Shifters are either twist or trigger style. Bikes in these categories tend to be more affordable than a dedicated road bike. Look to spend anywhere from $300 up to $1000 for a bike in these categories.

My choice for a short-distance commuter would be a commuter/city bike. With standard equipment like rack, fenders, dynohub and lights, commuter/city bikes comes with everything you need short of a helmet, panniers, and bicycling clothes to start commuting, rain or shine, day or night. They can also save you money over upgrading a hybrid or comfort bike to match that of a city/commuter.

Long-Distance Commuter

For distances of more than five miles, the demands shift more those long range comfort and multiple hand positioning. Drop bars or trekking bars become more of a necessity rather than a luxury, as does a good saddle. Beware of gel saddles or saddles that are too soft; while they may be fine for shorter trips, on long commutes, they will only increase pressure on your soft parts. Instead, look for a firmer (yes, I said firmer) saddle, and don't be afraid to try different saddles.

Road bikes make an obvious choice here, but do not overlook cyclo-cross bikes or a good touring bike. There are even some good hybrids that could work for 5+ mile commute. Look for multiple gears with a either a triple or a compact double crankset. Road bikes tend to have more closely spaced gears, so if you have a number of hills, you may want to opt for a cyclo-cross or touring bike. For these distances, a rear rack and fenders become necessities, so look for braze-ons. There are a some bikes in this range that come equipped with either fenders, racks, or both. If you are planning to ride on rough roads or over railroad crossing, consider the widest tire you can mount on the bike; road bikes tend to use thinner (less than 32mm wide) tires, which could translate into a harsher ride. Wider tires, while able to better absorb bumps, also come with increased rolling resistance.

More than likely, you will not find lights, kickstands, racks or fenders (except on some models), disc brakes, or IGHs. Therefore, you will need to budget accordingly. Rain gear is pretty much a given for this distance; while a couple miles in the rain may be refreshing, ten miles in the rain can leave you soaking wet and feeling miserable.

The prices here range from about $800-$2000+. However, a well equipped bike in this category can also be used for centuries, metric centuries, and even brevets and tours.

Note that these are broad generalizations, and may (or may not) reflect individual preferences. And, as always, test ride the bikes you are most interested in before (preferably several times) making a purchase. If the bike dealer will not allow you to test ride a bike, find a different dealer.

In Part three, I discuss my commuter, Fredkenstein™ I, the accessories used, why they were chosen, and the origins of the name.

The Ideal Commuter? - Part 1 Questions To Ask Yourself

I am on the Bike Forums message board and one of the most frequently asked questions from new commuters is "What bike should I get?" The basic answer is "what ever bike you own". Granted, there are those who tout the benefits of one bike over another, the real answer is somewhat more elusive and finally comes do to personal preference. So in this five part series, I will first outline what I believe to be some of the fundamental questions to ask yourself. Part 2 will cover what to look for in a short distance versus a long distance commuter bike. In Part 3, I will then describe my current bike, including accessories, and rationale for my choices. Part 4 will list some bikes that best fit the aforementioned qualities. And finally, Part 5 will describe my ideal commuting bike, should any manufacturer be willing to build it. And remember, this is merely one person's opinion; only you, dear reader, can decide what bike is best suited for you.

The basic requirements of a commuter bike is that it has two wheels and a frame geometry that is comfortable suited for the style of riding the rider prefers. Okay, so that's the smartass response, but it is also true. A road racing bike would be overkill for a two mile commute. On the other hand, a beach cruiser would be too heavy and cumbersome for a ten mile commute. So, let's list the various factors that go into selecting a good commuter.

• How long is the commute?

If your commute is five miles or less, you might look into a hybrid or a commuter bike. Both style bikes offer a more upright riding position versus a road bike, making it easier to see above and around cars. Commuter bikes come with a fenders, a rack, and, most often than not, a headlight and possibly a tail light, thereby eliminating some additional purchases. Both hybrids and commuter bikes come with either flat or riser-style handlebars, which limit your riding position. The addition of bar ends or swapping out the stock bars for a trekking bar will give additional hand positions and offer a more comfortable ride on longer commutes.

Longer rides are possible with both, but a good road, touring, or cyclo-cross bike may mean a faster, more comfortable and enjoyable ride. With drop bars, the rider can get into multiple riding positions, which comes in handy during longer commutes and makes dealing with headwinds a little more bearable. Touring and cyclo-cross bikes come with braze-ons for fenders and racks, and often accept wider tires than most road bikes. Also look for water bottle mounts; longer trips in the summer means being adequately hydrated.


• What is your intended route like?

If your commuting route is primarily along bike paths or multi-use paths (MUPs), a hybrid or commuter bike will be more "pedestrian" friendly than a road bike. However, do not let that stop you from riding your roadie on an MUP; just be aware that this isn't the Tour de France and you're not Lance Armstrong (unless you really are). If you're route includes dirt trails, you might want tires that have a slightly more aggressive tread than the standard road tire. Consider, too, imperfections and debris along the road. Some most roads will have bumps, potholes, patches, etc., that will jar your teeth. Wider tires can help absorb some of the shock, as well as suspension forks and seat posts, carbon fiber (if you're willing to pay the price) and that steel tends to absorb shock better than aluminum. It would also be advisable to purchase tires that have added puncture resistance. While it does add weight to your wheels, it is outweighed by the piece of mind that you're less likely to get a flat tire on the very day you're running late.


• Will you be carrying extra clothes, gear, etc.? If so, how do you plan on carrying them?

If your commute is short, you may be able to wear your work clothes as you ride. If not, or if you prefer to wear the full bicycling regalia, you will need some way to either carry a change of clothing, or have clothes at work. Locks, lunch, tools, spare tube, and other items that you may want to take with you will have to have some place to be stored and carried. A backpack is a simple way of carrying extra items. However, during the hot summer months may mean a sweaty back and longer rides could add tired shoulders to the mix. A rear rack with panniers and/or a rack trunk is a popular choice among long-distance commuters. Panniers can range from wire baskets to soft-sided bags, from bags that double as backpacks to homemade bucket panniers. A trunk is an easy way to carry lunch, tools, or an extra pair of shoes if your riding in work clothes, or extra storage in addition to panniers for things like a quick stop at the grocery store or getting take-out food.

If you do plan on using a rack, look for braze-on on the rear dropouts and the upper part of the seat stays. Do not be dismayed if there are none; you can use P-clamps to mount a rack, but talk to your local bike shop more doing this on a carbon fiber frame.


• What is your riding style like?

Are you an aggressive rider or more casual? Road, cyclo-cross, and single-speed bikes tend to favor a more aggressive riding style whereas hybrids, commuting, and touring bikes have more relax geometries.


• How much money have you budgeted for the bike, clothes, and accessories?

If you do not already have a bike, you will need to budget not only for the bike itself, but for a helmet, gloves, and any accessories you may want/need. This is where the costs can really add up, so shop around for the best deals. Remember, a commuter bike does not have to be fancy, fast, or even new, just comfortable and capable of meeting your needs and riding style. Later you can save up for that full carbon race bike.

Some recommended accessories are: a helmet, gloves, a flashing tail light and headlight, a tire pump, a spare tube, a tire patch kit, a multi-tool, tire irons, locks, and a kickstand.


• Do you plan on riding in the rain? At night? Year round?

There is an unwritten rule that states, "If you ride long enough and often enough, you will, sooner or later, planned or unplanned, end up riding in the rain". When that happens, you can either: a) wait it out; b) ride anyways and get wet; or c) plan and prepare ahead of time. I prefer "c". You can go with the full-on Fred factor and install full fenders with mud flaps, or simply carry a rain jacket with you. Also consider the time of the year. If it's the middle of a hot, Mississippi summer, a ride in the rain sans rain jacket, rain pants and shoe covers may be just the thing to cool you off and refresh you. If it's a cold, drizzly fall rain, you might want to keep covered up and warm. Fenders with mud flaps will help keep rain and mud off your bike and shoes. Shoe covers, especially neoprene, will not only keep your feet dry, but also warm.

For safe riding, you should have at least one, if not more, blinking tail light, like the Planet Bike SuperFlash. However, if you plan on riding at light or even during the dawn/dusk hours, a good headlight and tail light system is a must. Prices range from about $25 for a powerful Cree LED flashlight all the way to over $500 for a dynohub and dyno-powered headlight and tail light.


• Do you want a standard geared bike? Internal gears? A single speed?

Most bikes sold today are standard multi-geared models with front and rear derailleurs. However, there is a resurgence in internally geared and single-speed bikes. Both options offer clean, uncomplicated, easy to maintain drive trains. Internally geared hubs (IGH) can range from three speeds all the way up to fourteen speeds or even an infinitely variable range, allowing the rider to match the gear with the terrain. IGHs also allow you to change gears while stopped, a huge advantage if you find yourself making frequent stops. Single-speed bikes tend to do better on more level terrain, but there are bicyclists riding single-speeds in places like San Francisco and Seattle, too.

So, to summarize what to look for in choosing a commuter bike.

1. A frame design suited to your riding style;
2. Handlebar that offers a good riding position or multiple positions;
   
3. Braze-ons for fenders, rack, and water bottle cages;
4. Puncture resistant tires;
5. Single or multi-speed drive train, depending on your preference;
6. Comfort.

In Part 2, I will talk about what to look for in a short-distance and long-distance commuting bike.