The Ideal Commuter? - Part 2 Short- and Long-Distance Commuters

In Part 1, I went over a list of questions to consider before selecting a commuting bike. In this post, I will talk about the things I believe are essential requirements for both a short-distance (less than five miles) and long-distance (more than five miles) commuting bikes. I picked five miles because it is a distance where the commuting time by bike versus car is about equal. Beyond five minutes, the time advantage tends towards the car, but that varies depending on location, route taken, amount of traffic, yada, yada, yada.

Short-Distance Commuter

In this range, almost any bike will work, from a single-speed beach cruiser all the way up to a full-carbon time trials bike. However, most riders will opt for either a hybrid, a commuter/city, or a comfort bike. These bikes feature more a more upright riding position, comfortable saddles, flat or riser handlebars with comfortable grips, braze-on mounts for a rear rack and fenders, 700c wheels (although some will come with the smaller 26" wheels), and wider tires to help absorb shock. The geometry of comfort bikes are much more relaxed and give the rider a more upright riding position the a hybrid. Commuter and city bikes may have a geometry of a hybrid or a comfort bike, depending on the manufacturer and model. Commuter and city bikes will also come with fenders, a rear rack, a kickstand, a dynohub with headlight and tail light (the tail light may or may not be powered by the dynohub, so check with your bike dealer first), and even a bell.

The main advantages of these bikes for commuting is not only the comfort factor, but being able to see above and around cars easily. Because the commuting distance is so short, you could opt not to purchase fenders or a rack and instead carry a lightweight rain jacket (or not) and a backpack or a messenger bag. The number of speeds is up to the rider, but a good eight speed internally geared bike makes an excellent choice here. Linear pull or V brakes, are usually standard, although you may find some models equipped with disc brakes. Shifters are either twist or trigger style. Bikes in these categories tend to be more affordable than a dedicated road bike. Look to spend anywhere from $300 up to $1000 for a bike in these categories.

My choice for a short-distance commuter would be a commuter/city bike. With standard equipment like rack, fenders, dynohub and lights, commuter/city bikes comes with everything you need short of a helmet, panniers, and bicycling clothes to start commuting, rain or shine, day or night. They can also save you money over upgrading a hybrid or comfort bike to match that of a city/commuter.

Long-Distance Commuter

For distances of more than five miles, the demands shift more those long range comfort and multiple hand positioning. Drop bars or trekking bars become more of a necessity rather than a luxury, as does a good saddle. Beware of gel saddles or saddles that are too soft; while they may be fine for shorter trips, on long commutes, they will only increase pressure on your soft parts. Instead, look for a firmer (yes, I said firmer) saddle, and don't be afraid to try different saddles.

Road bikes make an obvious choice here, but do not overlook cyclo-cross bikes or a good touring bike. There are even some good hybrids that could work for 5+ mile commute. Look for multiple gears with a either a triple or a compact double crankset. Road bikes tend to have more closely spaced gears, so if you have a number of hills, you may want to opt for a cyclo-cross or touring bike. For these distances, a rear rack and fenders become necessities, so look for braze-ons. There are a some bikes in this range that come equipped with either fenders, racks, or both. If you are planning to ride on rough roads or over railroad crossing, consider the widest tire you can mount on the bike; road bikes tend to use thinner (less than 32mm wide) tires, which could translate into a harsher ride. Wider tires, while able to better absorb bumps, also come with increased rolling resistance.

More than likely, you will not find lights, kickstands, racks or fenders (except on some models), disc brakes, or IGHs. Therefore, you will need to budget accordingly. Rain gear is pretty much a given for this distance; while a couple miles in the rain may be refreshing, ten miles in the rain can leave you soaking wet and feeling miserable.

The prices here range from about $800-$2000+. However, a well equipped bike in this category can also be used for centuries, metric centuries, and even brevets and tours.

Note that these are broad generalizations, and may (or may not) reflect individual preferences. And, as always, test ride the bikes you are most interested in before (preferably several times) making a purchase. If the bike dealer will not allow you to test ride a bike, find a different dealer.

In Part three, I discuss my commuter, Fredkenstein™ I, the accessories used, why they were chosen, and the origins of the name.