Rain, rain . . .

A summer thundershower just past through and it reminded me that I should post another entry, this time on rain gear. Now, when I talk "rain gear", I typically mean rain jacket and, possibly, rain pants, but I'm going to expand my definition a bit to include other rain related equipment as well as some opinions on the subject.


What to wear

This isn't as easy as it may seem because when you're riding, you are also generating heat (and lots of it) and sweat (and lots of it). The most obvious choice would be to go with a Gore-Tex© jacket. However, you are riding in the summer during a thundershower, the Gore-Tex© may not allow the perspiration to evaporate fast enough to keep you cool and dry (which is the whole point of wearing Gore-Tex© in the first place). Secondly, most thundershowers happen suddenly and pass quickly, so by the time you've stopped to put on your Gore-Tex© jacket, the thundershower may already have passed (or will shortly), leaving you just as wet. Under circumstances like that, with the heat and rain, I would just not bother with the jacket and let the rain cool me off right then and allow my clothes to dry naturally after the rain stopped, keeping me cool in the process.

Now, if it's a storm or prolonged shower (typically those associated with a warm front ), wearing rain gear makes sense because it may be hours (even days) before the rain passes. But is Gore-Tex© really necessary? Probably not. Face it; if it's raining, you're going to get wet. Period. Just get over the notion of staying completely dry and accept the fact you will get wet no matter how hard you try. If the weather is warm (70°F or higher), a rain jacket is probably not necessary. For cooler weather, rain gear will keep you moderately dry, but, more importantly, warmer. Yes, it is possible to get hypothermia in the summer (if the conditions are right) as well as hyperthermia, so be aware of the symptoms. A lightweight, water-resistant jacket, pants, and gloves will help keep you warm when cold rain comes, as will a pair of booties (I personally like the neoprene kind myself).

When selecting a jacket, think ventilation over waterproof. A good rain jacket will provide vents (often in the form of zippered, ventilated "pits" and a ventilated back with a flap to hold off the rain. Rain pants should be able to be put on while wearing shoes, so look for zippered legs. And, as always, make sure there is some reflective material; if not, buy an inexpensive reflective safety vest to wear over your jacket. Rain often means limited visibility and when it comes to bicycling, being seen is being safe.

One last item of interest that you may find helpful is a cycling cap. Cycling caps are inexpensive and yet very handy items. They can keep sweat from rolling into your eyes; the visor can keep the sun out, as well as the rain; and they fit nicely under a helmet.

What about the bike

As I said, I am expanding my definition of "rain gear" to include the bike as well as the rider. The very best thing to have on your bike for the rain is a set of fenders (also called mud guards). I have a set of SKS fenders which have the advantage of an aluminum core versus all plastic fenders, which makes them stronger. I also added a pair of Brooks mud flaps, to give a more polished finish and additional coverage.

Now, if you own a leather saddle, like I do, you will want to protect that as well. First, treating the saddle with Proofide, or other leather treatment, will not only prolong the life of your saddle, but offer water resistance as well. Unless you bring your bike inside or keep it in a bike locker, you will want to cover the saddle. You can purchase a saddle cover, but you also wrap a plastic shopping bag or even a shower cap over the saddle to keep the rain off.

And if you find yourself caught in a severe thunderstorm, my advice is to stop by the closest bar and have a couple drinks to wait out the storm.

Sorry for the hiatus

Okay, okay, I know; it's been a couple months since my last entry. The reasons are many and lame. With the new year came a new schedule (which seemed to change almost daily), not to mention at staying in a warm, cozy bed seemed to be a better option than peddling 10 miles in the cold, dark morning air. Then there was March, which seemed to become more of a lion as the month went along. We had several major thunderstorms roll through and, quite frankly, I'd just as soon not die by drowning in a torrential downpour. Oh, and windy?!?! If someone went out kite surfing, I would half expect them to end up in Oz before the day was over. The prospect of riding 10 miles into a 20+ MPH headwind when your average speed in only 15 MPH makes my legs hurt just thinking about it.

The fact is, I needed a break, if only to keep from turning stale. There is such thing as too much of a good thing. A common complaint among bicyclists is reaching a plateau. That is, you ride and ride, but you don't see any real changes. In fact, it can often be that you regress. That is when you should take a break and try something different for a while. This is one of the reason many bicyclist often take up running and/or swimming. The technical term is cross-training, but I simply call it breaking out of a rut.

The problem comes in knowing how long is too long of a break. The old adage "if you don't use it, you'll lose it" applies. Don't get me wrong, it's perfectly okay to stop commuting for a month or two (or more, if needed), but soon what was a regular routine before the break becomes a chore when you pick it back up. One way to ease back into the old routine is to slowly build it back up. Take a ride around the neighborhood once or twice a week. Nothing requiring great effort, or even your normal riding clothes. Just explore some of the side streets that you passed along the way before. Get some fresh air. Ride down to the beach or the local park. Better yet, head on over to the local bike shop and test ride a few bikes, even if you're not in the market to buy one yet. If you're currently riding a commuting bike, try a road bike or a mountain bike. Heck, take the top-of-the-line road bike out for a quick spin and see how it feels.

As for me, I am planning on commuting again starting this month. During Spring Break last month, I rode to work on Thursday to conduct a workshop for a couple new employees. I swapped weekends with another librarian this weekend and rode to work today. Both rides felt great, and reminded me of why I love to ride. Tomorrow should bring some scattered thunderstorms, but I may still ride.

The Ideal Commuter? - Part 5 My Ideal Commuter Bike

Okay, at long last, here is the final installment. As always, remember that this is merely one person's opinion and what I think as the ideal commuter bike may or may not be what you (or anyone else, for that matter) think. Also, the bike I've chosen is also (for lack of a better term) a dream bike, as in "only in my wildest". (Hey, if the automakers can make dream cars, why not a dream bike?)

The bicycle that I feel makes the ideal commuter is Tout Terrain's Silkroad.

Okay, what makes this bike so special? Let me start with the obvious features. First, the rear rack is actually part of the frame; that makes the rack and frame that much stronger. Also, fewer bolts that can come loose. Second, the frame is designed to use disc brakes and only disc brakes. For anyone who commutes in snow, ice, or rainy conditions, disc brakes will stop you a lot faster without fear of the rims being slick from ice or water. Also, in the event that your wheel is damaged, your brakes will still work and will not wear down your rims prematurely.

The not so obvious, but oh so well thought out details include stainless steel braze-ons and drop-outs; an asymmetrical front fork to withstand the torque from the disc brake; guides for brake lines and wiring; internal routing of wires to the tail light; a handlebar stop to prevent the fork from moving more than 90°; and an integrated stand mount, among others. Be sure to read Peter White's description of the Silkroad for more information.

The frame comes in two flavors: the standard derailluer set-up (as shown above) or with an eccentric bottom bracket and mounts for a Rohloff Speedhub, giving you 14 speeds of internal gear goodness. Now, I know what you may be thinking right now: I can get more gears with a standard derailluer set-up. Well, technically, not so much.

Take a standard hybrid set-up, say a 28-38-48 chain ring with a 11-28 9-speed cassette. Mathematically, that gives you 27 speeds from which to choose. However, if you plug those numbers into a gear inch calculator, you'll find that 6 gear combinations are almost identical (28x21 & 38x28; 28x18 & 38x24; 28x14 & 48x24), while eight more are within one gear inch (28x13 & 38x16; 28x12 & 38x16; 38x14 & 48x18; 38x11 & 48x14). That drops the number of gears from 27 to 20. Also, due to the angle of the chain going from the smallest chain ring to the smallest cogs and from the biggest chain ring to the biggest cogs, you eliminate another 4 to 6 gears, so your usable gears drops from 20 to 16 or 14 gears. Calculated for a 26"x1.25" tire, your gear inch range is between 24.5 and 106.8 gear inches.

Compare that to the Rohloff hub with a 48 tooth chain ring and a 16 tooth cog with a 26"x1.25" tire, which yields a range of between 20.5 and 107.7 gear inches. Not only do you get a wider range of gears, you get the added benefits of a cleaner chain line, no derailluers that need adjusting or could be damaged, and the ability to change gears at a dead stop. Granted, it does come at a cost, both in price and weight. The Rohloff hub runs about $1300US to $1600US, depending on the version (start saving those pennies now), and weighs in at around 1847 g, or roughly 0.5 kg (about a 20oz bottle of water) more than a standard derailluer set-up.

The frame itself is not inexpensive, either. Peter White sells the frame for $1500US. However, if configured with some forethought (and Mr. White's recommendations), you will have a bicycle that will not only be an excellent commuter, but will handle centuries, brevets, and fully-loaded tours with style. In other words, think of the Silkroad as a Land Rover rather than as a Ferrari.

There are a couple deviations I would take from Mr. White's recommendations, but then again, everyone has their preferences. First, I would opt for Avid BB7 mechanical disc brakes rather than hydraulic brakes; a single adjustment knob without having to bleed the brake lines. Also, I would add a trekking or butterfly bar instead of a more traditional mountain bike bar, for more positions to reduce fatigue.

Is the bike pricey? Oh, yeah. Is it worth it? Depends on who you ask. I simply name this as an ideal commuter, a gold standard if you will, by which all others are compared. If you have the resources available and you are interested, by all means pursue it. However, most of us (myself included) can only look at this bike and dream of owning one.

Now, it's your turn. If you have a commuter bike that is your idea of "heaven on two wheels", let me know what make, model, and why you feel it is worthy of being an ideal commuter. And, yes, I will post any and all replies here. I will be taking a short holiday break from the blog, but I look forward to continuing this after the new year begins. So let me wish all of you out there reading my humble blog a Happy Holidays and a bright and prosperous (let's hope, at least) New Year.

More Letters to the Editor

As a follow-up to an earlier letter to the editor in the SunHerald that I mentioned in a previous post, the bicyclist in question responded.

Law requires drivers and cyclists to share the road

Responding to [name withheld]’s letter of Nov. 17, “Few Coast streets are built for bikes and cars to share,” I am the menacing cyclist [name withheld]refers to. I cycled to work during the 1970s, ’80s and early ’90s before retiring. Setting the record straight I maintained a 1- to 2-foot distance from the road edge to avoid being side-swiped by passing cars.

Many motorists do not share the road. To protect myself I checked my rear-view mirror and, when seeing an approaching car, I moved toward the road edge to allow the motorist safe passage. Such defensive strategy protected both driver and me. I steer away from the road edge to avoid debris, stones, broken glass and holes which invite a flat. [Name withheld] should understand there are very few places to pull over on River Road.

Newspaper readers may remember “Mississippi Jack.” He complained about “the arrogant biker who, instead of driving on the extreme right, demanded the center of the one-lane Frederic Street Highway 90 underpass” and motioned for Jack to stay behind him. Yep, I was the arrogant biker trying to avoid being side-swiped in the curved, narrow underpass, which was lined with broken glass and debris, until I could ride through and move out of his way. Another example of a motorist refusing to share the road.

Mississippi state law says cyclists must ride as close as is safe to the right-hand edge of the roadway. A driver when overtaking and passing a bicycle proceeding in the same direction is required to leave a distance of not less than three feet between the motor vehicle and the bicycle.

More cyclists ride today than ever before. Riders, wear helmets, obey all traffic laws, signal when slowing, stopping, or turning. Ride in the same direction as auto traffic, stay as close to the right edge of the road as possible, walk across busy intersections. And to all the drivers, do not view cyclists as a traffic obstruction. Resist succumbing to road rage. We may be “losing money to a ticking time clock or missing appointments” or trying to meet a deadline. Thank you for your courtesy and consideration.

Name and location withheld.

SunHerald, Saturday, December 13, 2008

Then, the next day, I read this lovely piece.

Some people grow old, but they don’t grow up

Someone told me that I should exercise at a gym rather than walk or cycle outside. Sorry, lady, but although it might be too embarrassing for you to be seen bicycling in public, I like to inhale fresh air. Also, it is not scary for me as it might be for you. This is probably why I see a lot of women walking in pairs across the Ocean Springs bridge.

A lot of males think it is “macho” to honk, yell or say stupid things to me when I walk or cycle. I can understand such lack of maturity in a youngster, but many of these people are over 70 years old. Isn’t it time to grow up?

Name and location withheld.
SunHerald, Sunday, December 14, 2008.

Amen to that. To both authors: I will ride with you, any time, any place.

The Ideal Commuter? - Part 3 My Commuting Setup

In my last entry in this series, I discussed the basic differences between a short-distance versus a long-distance commuter bike. This time, I will talk about my commuter, what accessories I bought and why I chose them.

The Bike

Any commuting bike starts with the bike itself. In my case, it is a 1992 Specialized Crossroads Trail hybrid that I bought when I was in college. It replaced my trusty Specialized Hard Rock that was stolen. (This is what happens when you don't lock your bike, but that's for a different post.) The frame is made from chromoly steel and weighs in at about thirty pounds. The drive train is a 30-40-50 chain ring with 12-28 seven speed freewheel. The wheels are 700c, which makes them slightly larger than the 26" wheels that were on my old mountain bike. The bike remained stock until this past year when I started commuting.

The Commuting Essentials

The first change I made was to install a rear rack. I bought a Bor Yeuh rack (the rack in the link is similar to the rack I own) from Bike Nashbar for $10 on sale. While not the greatest rack around, the price could not be beat. The downside I found with the rack was what I believe to be a pitiful lack of clearance over the rear tire. Therefore, I recommend that in looking at racks, especially for 700c tires, that you look for one that is either specifically designed for 700c wheels (most should fit) or, better yet, look for one that has adjustable mounting brackets, especially where the rack mounts at the rear drop outs.

I also needed panniers. I bought a set of Nashbar Daytrekker panniers, but was unsatisfied with the capacity, so I built a pair of panniers from a couple of plastic buckets that held cat litter (another future entry) that have proven to be very capable and voluminous.

Next, I swapped out the tires that I had (which were dry rotted anyways) with Specialized Infinity Reflect 700x38c. I chose these tires for the puncture resistant Flak Jacket casing and the reflective sidewalls. The tread is a little aggressive for pavement, but then again, parts of my commute involve construction zones that may have sand, dirt, crush limestone, and/or gravel.

The stock saddle was starting to crack and fall apart (note: avoid vinyl covered saddles), so I did some research and decided on the Brooks B17 saddle. A little pricey compared to other saddles, but it has proven to be very comfortable once broken in. If you decide a Brooks is the saddle for you, I would advise buying a tin of Proofide at the same time, and a saddle cover to protect it from the rain.

Speaking of rain, I wanted my bike to be an all-weather commuter, so I added a set of SKS P50 Chromoplast fenders and added a couple Brooks leather mud flaps as a finishing touch. I chose the SKS fenders because, unlike other plastic bicycle fenders, the SKS fenders are made with thin strips of aluminum encased in plastic. This gives them a bit more rigidity and, in my opinion, durability. In fact, you can mount a tail light on Chromoplast fenders; something that plastic fenders cannot do.

Being Visible

Since I know that I will eventually end up riding at dawn/dusk times and even at night, staying visible is a high priority. My philosophy when it comes to being visible on a bicycle is, "Too much is never enough". I believe in having a balance between active lights and passive reflectors; never rely on just one type. When in doubt, repeat this mantra: "Redundancy is good. Redundancy is good."

The biggest fear among bicyclists is getting hit from behind. But as I pointed out in an earlier post, those accidents are far outweighed by frontal and side collisions. I have two Plant Bike Superflashes mounted on my rear fender and red reflective tape on the backside of my seat stays, on the back of my rear rim and a red reflective sheet on the back of both my bucket panniers.

Up front, I run a pair of Romisen RC-N3 CREE Q5 LED Flashlights mounted with a pair of Twofish Cyclopblocks hanging off of a pair of Minora Swing Grips. The Romisen flashlights have only one function (steady), put out a lot of light (over 200 lumens), can run on either one CR123A or two AA batteries, and have a decent run time (I have heard over three hours, but have not confirmed this first hand). I use rechargeable NiMH batteries for the lights (both front and rear) to cut down on battery costs and lessen my impact on the environment. I also have white reflective tape on the handlebars, down the front of the forks, and on the back of my front rim.

The final touch is an amber dual tube Down Low Glow mounted on the down tube and left chain stay. If you never heard or seen this product before and do any amount of night time riding, do yourself a favor and check out the site. During the day, the DLG is pretty much useless, but at night, cars will not only see you, but often times give you an entire lane's worth of space when they pass you. (Yes, this is from first hand experience). Not only is there an enhanced safety factor, this is also the coolness factor. I have had more than one person say, "Cool" or "I like your bike" when I'm on my night rides.

Visibility is not just limited to the bike, but also extends to the rider. Depending on the weather, I wear either a short sleeve jersey or a long sleeve jersey in Hi-Vis Yellow. I also have a Sugoi Venture jacket in Hi-Vis yellow. At night, I will add a reflective vest over my jersey. The one I currently wear is a green safety vest with silver reflective trim, but ideally I want to get a Hi-Vis yellow vest with safety orange trim and silver reflective tape. With all the road construction along Highway 90 recently, I found that this combination is highly visible even in fog.

Room for Improvement

Now after all that, you'd think I'd be satisfied. However, there are some areas that can be improved upon. First, I am still working on a nagging issue of the best hooks to use on my bucket panneirs; I currently use latching fender hooks to keep the panniers from bouncing loose. Second, I would like a second set of wheels (front and rear) as a backup in case one the current wheels gets damaged. I also want to try a different set of tires, namely Schwable Marathon Plus tires, which have superior puncture resistance, but also a high weight factor.

Even though the lights I have are suitable for the job, it would be nice to have lights that do not rely on battery power. Therefore, a generator hub (either Shimano or Schmidt) and coupled with a Busch & Müller Lumotec IQ Fly Plus headlight and a Busch & Müller 4D Lite Plus tail light would make an ideal companion to the battery powered lights and allow for longer night rides. Speaking of longer night rides, a better battery pack for the DLG would be a nice extra. I would also enhance the reflectivity of the bike by using SOLAS tape one the front of the bucket panniers, as well as the rims.

And as a final Fred touch, I would add a Mirrycle Mountain Mirror (two, actually) to keep an eye on things behind me (like overtaking cars) and an Incredibell Big Brass bell (the ring tone reminds me of the bike bell my parents had on their Schwinn Tandem).

Now is all of this really necessary? No. Is it overkill? Probably. Do I feel safer at night? Most definitely.

The next installment will cover a selection of different commuter bicycles, with comments on their strengths and weaknesses. Stay tuned.

Inflammatory Language

I am posting and would like to comment on a follow-up on my recent opinion piece that was published in the Sun-Herald.

Few Coast streets are built for bikes and cars to share

While many of us believe that bicycles are toys for children, we realize that in other parts of the world they are a major means of transportation. Still, cyclists should show courtesy and consideration for those driving larger vehicles. This includes getting over to the side of the road when a backup of traffic builds up.

Among the bike riders I have known is a very nice man who is active in city and cultural organizations. Pleasant, with a wonderful wife. Considerate in many ways. For years I had to drive to work on a narrow, curvy, two-lane road - the same road on which this man chose to ride in the center of the traffic lane. I'll admit that he did wear a helmet and, if I recall correctly, some sort of fluorescent vest, had a rearview mirror, not sure about headlight and taillight. He considered himself a responsible bike rider. We considered him a menace. Drivers exercised care to avoid colliding with him, but at the expense of their mental health.

This man never considered that many of us backed up a block or two behind him were losing money to a ticking time clock or missing appointments. He insisted that riding in the middle of the lane was his right and refused to pull over in one of the places where there was room to do so and let traffic get by. It didn't matter how early or late you left home; there was no way to predict whether you would be treated to the temper-raising, slow traffic he created.

I wish that more roads were like the Cowan-Lorraine racetrack, where at least there is a separate lane for bicycles. Most Coast towns already are handicapped by streets with no sidewalks, no bike lanes, no spaces for curb parking. At least we should not be tortured by bike riders.

Eric Speas' Nov. 7 Forum on bicycle laws was interesting. I was aware of the require- ment [sic] for using hand signals, but a picture flashed through my mind of a bike rider sticking out his left arm for a left turn and having it instantly amputated by a truck.

Name and Location Withheld

This is a prime example of how opponents (for lack of a better term) of bicyclist's rights use inflammatory language to instill fear to make their argument. For example,

He considered himself a responsible bike rider. We considered him a menace. Drivers exercised care to avoid colliding with him, but at the expense of their mental health.

Now, the Merriam-Webster dictionary defines menace as:

1: a show of intention to inflict harm : threat
2 a: one that represents a threat : danger b: a person who causes annoyance

Now, I am sure what the writer meant to say was that s/he view the bicyclist as an annoyance rather than a threat. However, instead of saying that, s/he used the word "menace", which has an entirely different connotation. When most people use the word "menace", it usually goes something like, "He was a danger and a menace to society." And when most people hear the word "menace", that is the image that comes to mind: a threat and a danger to others. I hardly think that the bicyclist in question was a real threat, unless s/he brandished his/her bicycle like a club.

The second half of that quote is also quite interesting. Apparently, drivers have mental breakdowns whenever they get behind or have to pass a bicyclist. Road rage is one thing, but to say that a single bicyclist (or even a group of bicyclists) riding down the road in a safe, legal manner causes undue mental anguish to drivers is almost laughable. Personally, I get more annoyed and angered at other motorists who disregard the traffic laws and drive in a dangerous way than I do whenever I'm behind a bicyclist.

The next quote I'd like to comment on is this:

This man never considered that many of us backed up a block or two behind him were losing money to a ticking time clock or missing appointments.

Okay, so traffic was backed up behind the bicyclist. Like that never happens with construction equipment, horses, tractors, Sunday drivers, etc. Exactly how much time and money are we talking here? I wager that the most time lost would have been about two or three minutes. If a person is earning $15/hour, that comes out to 25¢/minute. Therefore, the most money that could have been lost was 75¢. Oh, and if you've missed an appointment by three minutes, perhaps you should have left sooner. Whenever I have an appointment, I always try to get there no less than 15 minutes, just in case something should happen along the way. And yet, to read this, you would think that the entire economic crisis that we are currently in is all due to one lowly bicyclist.

Next,

Most Coast towns already are handicapped by streets with no sidewalks, no bike lanes, no spaces for curb parking. At least we should not be tortured by bike riders.

Now, bicyclists are not only causing mental anguish, but also physical pain as well. Torture? So now the bicyclist is waterboarding drivers and driving bamboo slivers under their nails? I may be annoyed with other motorists and their insane, stupid, reckless, dangerous and/or illegal behaviors, but not once would I say that I have ever been tortured by such behavior.

The last sentence is my favorite:

I was aware of the require- ment [sic] for using hand signals, but a picture flashed through my mind of a bike rider sticking out his left arm for a left turn and having it instantly amputated by a truck.

I have never, ever, in my entire life, had my arm (or any other appendage) amputated, much less by a truck or other vehicle. The writer assumes (or wants us to believe) that bicyclists do not look over their shoulders; that somehow our neck muscles lock up so that we can only look ahead. Never mind the fact that there several instances where motorists have changed lanes without looking, often times cutting other drivers off and possibly causing an accident. If anything, bicyclist are more likely to look behind them because the biggest fear bicyclists have is getting hit from behind, even though statistics say that this type of accident is far less common than being hit from the front or side.

It is obvious that the person who wrote this letter has strong, emotional feelings about the issue. It is also worthy to note the choice of words and the use of language. This is a good example of the kind of criticism and resistance that bicyclists as a whole face from motorists. Therefore, it is worth to effort to recognize and defend against such attacks using not emotionally charge language, but facts, statistics, and well-reasoned, rationale arguments. When emotions run high, that is when bad things are most likely to happen.

My Opinion Piece

As per a request, I am posting my Opinion piece that was recently published in the Sun-Herald.

What Mississippi law says about bicycles
by Eric Speas

Under the heading, "Get insurance, then rights," a Sound Off caller said, "If bicycle riders think they have the same rights as the automobiles, they need to have their turn signals, their lights and a bicycle tag. They also need insurance, then they can have the right of way of the highway."

I would like to address these arguments individually, so as to clarify any misunderstandings.

First, bicycles do have the same rights and responsibilities as automobile drivers. The Mississippi Code Section 63-3-207 states:

"Every person riding a bicycle or an animal or driving any animal drawing a vehicle upon a highway shall have all of the rights and all of the duties applicable to the driver of a vehicle under this chapter, except those provisions of this chapter which by their nature can have no application."

That right is guaranteed by the law. The exception is for controlled-access facilities, such as interstate highways.

As to turn signals, bicyclists, as well as motorcyclists and automobile drivers, can use hand signals to indicate intention to turn and stop. Section 63-3-709 states:

"The signals required in this article shall be given either by means of the hand and arm or by a signal lamp or signal device of a type approved by the department. When a vehicle is so constructed or loaded that a hand and arm signal would not be visible both to the front and rear of such vehicle, then said signals must be given by such a lamp or device."

Sec. 63-3-711 goes on to clarify:

"All signals given by hand and arm shall be given from the left side of the vehicle in the following manner and such signals shall indicate as follows:

"Left turn - hand and are extended horizontally.

"Right turn - hand and arm extended upward or moved with a sweeping motion from the rear to the front.

"Stop or decrease speed - hand and arm extended downward."

In regards to the use of lights, the Mississippi Code Section 63-7-13 states:

"Every bicycle shall be equipped with a lighted white lamp on the front thereof visible under normal atmospheric conditions from a distance of at least five hundred feet in front of such bicycle and shall also be equipped with a reflex mirror reflector or lamp on the rear exhibiting a red light visible under like conditions from a distance of at least 500 feet to the rear of such bicycle."

However, this is applicable only "during the period from sunset to sunrise and at any other time when there is not sufficient light to render clearly discernible any person on the highway at a distance of five hundred feet ahead." (Section. 63-7-11)

There is no requirement in Mississippi, nor in any other state, that requires bicycles to have tags. The idea, while attractive to some, has been tried in the past and proved to be both ineffective and inefficient. In 1935, the city of Toronto required bicycles to be licensed and to display the tag; that measure was repealed in 1956.

There is no requirement under Mississippi law requiring bicyclists to purchase insurance. In fact, most, if not all, insurance companies do not even have such policies available.

I would also like to point out Mississippi Code, Section 63-3-1112:

"Notwithstanding other provisions of this chapter or the provisions of any local ordinance, every driver of a vehicle shall exercise due care to avoid colliding with any pedestrian or any person propelling a human-powered vehicle and shall give an audible signal when necessary and shall exercise proper precaution upon observing any child or any obviously confused, incapacitated or intoxicated person."

As a bicyclist, I adhere to the regulations, as do many other bicyclists. That does not mean that there are those who do not, just as there are motorists who do not adhere to all traffic laws.

I am well aware of the vulnerable position I am in every time I ride. However, I do everything within my power to mitigate the risks. I ride with headlights, taillights and a helmet, not because it is required by law, but rather to reduce my risks of accidents and injury. I avoid using heavily trafficked streets, such as Pass Road and U.S. 90, whenever possible.

I have witnessed other bicyclists riding in dangerous and unlawful ways and I do not like it any more than you do. It reflects poorly on all bicyclists.

Bicycling is a safe, healthy, relaxing and enjoyable means of not only exercise, but transportation. I bicycle to work two or three times a week, not to save money on gas, but because I enjoy it and the health benefits that come with it. I would no sooner give up my rights to ride my bicycle than I would give up my right to free speech or ask others to do the same.

The Ideal Commuter? - Part 2 Short- and Long-Distance Commuters

In Part 1, I went over a list of questions to consider before selecting a commuting bike. In this post, I will talk about the things I believe are essential requirements for both a short-distance (less than five miles) and long-distance (more than five miles) commuting bikes. I picked five miles because it is a distance where the commuting time by bike versus car is about equal. Beyond five minutes, the time advantage tends towards the car, but that varies depending on location, route taken, amount of traffic, yada, yada, yada.

Short-Distance Commuter

In this range, almost any bike will work, from a single-speed beach cruiser all the way up to a full-carbon time trials bike. However, most riders will opt for either a hybrid, a commuter/city, or a comfort bike. These bikes feature more a more upright riding position, comfortable saddles, flat or riser handlebars with comfortable grips, braze-on mounts for a rear rack and fenders, 700c wheels (although some will come with the smaller 26" wheels), and wider tires to help absorb shock. The geometry of comfort bikes are much more relaxed and give the rider a more upright riding position the a hybrid. Commuter and city bikes may have a geometry of a hybrid or a comfort bike, depending on the manufacturer and model. Commuter and city bikes will also come with fenders, a rear rack, a kickstand, a dynohub with headlight and tail light (the tail light may or may not be powered by the dynohub, so check with your bike dealer first), and even a bell.

The main advantages of these bikes for commuting is not only the comfort factor, but being able to see above and around cars easily. Because the commuting distance is so short, you could opt not to purchase fenders or a rack and instead carry a lightweight rain jacket (or not) and a backpack or a messenger bag. The number of speeds is up to the rider, but a good eight speed internally geared bike makes an excellent choice here. Linear pull or V brakes, are usually standard, although you may find some models equipped with disc brakes. Shifters are either twist or trigger style. Bikes in these categories tend to be more affordable than a dedicated road bike. Look to spend anywhere from $300 up to $1000 for a bike in these categories.

My choice for a short-distance commuter would be a commuter/city bike. With standard equipment like rack, fenders, dynohub and lights, commuter/city bikes comes with everything you need short of a helmet, panniers, and bicycling clothes to start commuting, rain or shine, day or night. They can also save you money over upgrading a hybrid or comfort bike to match that of a city/commuter.

Long-Distance Commuter

For distances of more than five miles, the demands shift more those long range comfort and multiple hand positioning. Drop bars or trekking bars become more of a necessity rather than a luxury, as does a good saddle. Beware of gel saddles or saddles that are too soft; while they may be fine for shorter trips, on long commutes, they will only increase pressure on your soft parts. Instead, look for a firmer (yes, I said firmer) saddle, and don't be afraid to try different saddles.

Road bikes make an obvious choice here, but do not overlook cyclo-cross bikes or a good touring bike. There are even some good hybrids that could work for 5+ mile commute. Look for multiple gears with a either a triple or a compact double crankset. Road bikes tend to have more closely spaced gears, so if you have a number of hills, you may want to opt for a cyclo-cross or touring bike. For these distances, a rear rack and fenders become necessities, so look for braze-ons. There are a some bikes in this range that come equipped with either fenders, racks, or both. If you are planning to ride on rough roads or over railroad crossing, consider the widest tire you can mount on the bike; road bikes tend to use thinner (less than 32mm wide) tires, which could translate into a harsher ride. Wider tires, while able to better absorb bumps, also come with increased rolling resistance.

More than likely, you will not find lights, kickstands, racks or fenders (except on some models), disc brakes, or IGHs. Therefore, you will need to budget accordingly. Rain gear is pretty much a given for this distance; while a couple miles in the rain may be refreshing, ten miles in the rain can leave you soaking wet and feeling miserable.

The prices here range from about $800-$2000+. However, a well equipped bike in this category can also be used for centuries, metric centuries, and even brevets and tours.

Note that these are broad generalizations, and may (or may not) reflect individual preferences. And, as always, test ride the bikes you are most interested in before (preferably several times) making a purchase. If the bike dealer will not allow you to test ride a bike, find a different dealer.

In Part three, I discuss my commuter, Fredkenstein™ I, the accessories used, why they were chosen, and the origins of the name.

The Ideal Commuter? - Part 1 Questions To Ask Yourself

I am on the Bike Forums message board and one of the most frequently asked questions from new commuters is "What bike should I get?" The basic answer is "what ever bike you own". Granted, there are those who tout the benefits of one bike over another, the real answer is somewhat more elusive and finally comes do to personal preference. So in this five part series, I will first outline what I believe to be some of the fundamental questions to ask yourself. Part 2 will cover what to look for in a short distance versus a long distance commuter bike. In Part 3, I will then describe my current bike, including accessories, and rationale for my choices. Part 4 will list some bikes that best fit the aforementioned qualities. And finally, Part 5 will describe my ideal commuting bike, should any manufacturer be willing to build it. And remember, this is merely one person's opinion; only you, dear reader, can decide what bike is best suited for you.

The basic requirements of a commuter bike is that it has two wheels and a frame geometry that is comfortable suited for the style of riding the rider prefers. Okay, so that's the smartass response, but it is also true. A road racing bike would be overkill for a two mile commute. On the other hand, a beach cruiser would be too heavy and cumbersome for a ten mile commute. So, let's list the various factors that go into selecting a good commuter.

• How long is the commute?

If your commute is five miles or less, you might look into a hybrid or a commuter bike. Both style bikes offer a more upright riding position versus a road bike, making it easier to see above and around cars. Commuter bikes come with a fenders, a rack, and, most often than not, a headlight and possibly a tail light, thereby eliminating some additional purchases. Both hybrids and commuter bikes come with either flat or riser-style handlebars, which limit your riding position. The addition of bar ends or swapping out the stock bars for a trekking bar will give additional hand positions and offer a more comfortable ride on longer commutes.

Longer rides are possible with both, but a good road, touring, or cyclo-cross bike may mean a faster, more comfortable and enjoyable ride. With drop bars, the rider can get into multiple riding positions, which comes in handy during longer commutes and makes dealing with headwinds a little more bearable. Touring and cyclo-cross bikes come with braze-ons for fenders and racks, and often accept wider tires than most road bikes. Also look for water bottle mounts; longer trips in the summer means being adequately hydrated.


• What is your intended route like?

If your commuting route is primarily along bike paths or multi-use paths (MUPs), a hybrid or commuter bike will be more "pedestrian" friendly than a road bike. However, do not let that stop you from riding your roadie on an MUP; just be aware that this isn't the Tour de France and you're not Lance Armstrong (unless you really are). If you're route includes dirt trails, you might want tires that have a slightly more aggressive tread than the standard road tire. Consider, too, imperfections and debris along the road. Some most roads will have bumps, potholes, patches, etc., that will jar your teeth. Wider tires can help absorb some of the shock, as well as suspension forks and seat posts, carbon fiber (if you're willing to pay the price) and that steel tends to absorb shock better than aluminum. It would also be advisable to purchase tires that have added puncture resistance. While it does add weight to your wheels, it is outweighed by the piece of mind that you're less likely to get a flat tire on the very day you're running late.


• Will you be carrying extra clothes, gear, etc.? If so, how do you plan on carrying them?

If your commute is short, you may be able to wear your work clothes as you ride. If not, or if you prefer to wear the full bicycling regalia, you will need some way to either carry a change of clothing, or have clothes at work. Locks, lunch, tools, spare tube, and other items that you may want to take with you will have to have some place to be stored and carried. A backpack is a simple way of carrying extra items. However, during the hot summer months may mean a sweaty back and longer rides could add tired shoulders to the mix. A rear rack with panniers and/or a rack trunk is a popular choice among long-distance commuters. Panniers can range from wire baskets to soft-sided bags, from bags that double as backpacks to homemade bucket panniers. A trunk is an easy way to carry lunch, tools, or an extra pair of shoes if your riding in work clothes, or extra storage in addition to panniers for things like a quick stop at the grocery store or getting take-out food.

If you do plan on using a rack, look for braze-on on the rear dropouts and the upper part of the seat stays. Do not be dismayed if there are none; you can use P-clamps to mount a rack, but talk to your local bike shop more doing this on a carbon fiber frame.


• What is your riding style like?

Are you an aggressive rider or more casual? Road, cyclo-cross, and single-speed bikes tend to favor a more aggressive riding style whereas hybrids, commuting, and touring bikes have more relax geometries.


• How much money have you budgeted for the bike, clothes, and accessories?

If you do not already have a bike, you will need to budget not only for the bike itself, but for a helmet, gloves, and any accessories you may want/need. This is where the costs can really add up, so shop around for the best deals. Remember, a commuter bike does not have to be fancy, fast, or even new, just comfortable and capable of meeting your needs and riding style. Later you can save up for that full carbon race bike.

Some recommended accessories are: a helmet, gloves, a flashing tail light and headlight, a tire pump, a spare tube, a tire patch kit, a multi-tool, tire irons, locks, and a kickstand.


• Do you plan on riding in the rain? At night? Year round?

There is an unwritten rule that states, "If you ride long enough and often enough, you will, sooner or later, planned or unplanned, end up riding in the rain". When that happens, you can either: a) wait it out; b) ride anyways and get wet; or c) plan and prepare ahead of time. I prefer "c". You can go with the full-on Fred factor and install full fenders with mud flaps, or simply carry a rain jacket with you. Also consider the time of the year. If it's the middle of a hot, Mississippi summer, a ride in the rain sans rain jacket, rain pants and shoe covers may be just the thing to cool you off and refresh you. If it's a cold, drizzly fall rain, you might want to keep covered up and warm. Fenders with mud flaps will help keep rain and mud off your bike and shoes. Shoe covers, especially neoprene, will not only keep your feet dry, but also warm.

For safe riding, you should have at least one, if not more, blinking tail light, like the Planet Bike SuperFlash. However, if you plan on riding at light or even during the dawn/dusk hours, a good headlight and tail light system is a must. Prices range from about $25 for a powerful Cree LED flashlight all the way to over $500 for a dynohub and dyno-powered headlight and tail light.


• Do you want a standard geared bike? Internal gears? A single speed?

Most bikes sold today are standard multi-geared models with front and rear derailleurs. However, there is a resurgence in internally geared and single-speed bikes. Both options offer clean, uncomplicated, easy to maintain drive trains. Internally geared hubs (IGH) can range from three speeds all the way up to fourteen speeds or even an infinitely variable range, allowing the rider to match the gear with the terrain. IGHs also allow you to change gears while stopped, a huge advantage if you find yourself making frequent stops. Single-speed bikes tend to do better on more level terrain, but there are bicyclists riding single-speeds in places like San Francisco and Seattle, too.

So, to summarize what to look for in choosing a commuter bike.

1. A frame design suited to your riding style;
2. Handlebar that offers a good riding position or multiple positions;
   
3. Braze-ons for fenders, rack, and water bottle cages;
4. Puncture resistant tires;
5. Single or multi-speed drive train, depending on your preference;
6. Comfort.

In Part 2, I will talk about what to look for in a short-distance and long-distance commuting bike.